Looking for help/advice on truck ...

[Willy1823]

Alright so I’m learning here and trying to figure this out. I have 3.55 with a 13 spd. I have a demandated ISX, pulling a skateboard. I run all over the country. Most of the time I’m running heavy, but sometimes I’m hauling insulation. What your telling me is keeping the truck around 1600 rpms when I’m heavy, and keep it on the lower side when I’m light? Just wanna make sure I’m understanding this?

[Rawze]

(02-25-2021 )Willy1823 Wrote:  Alright so I’m learning here and trying to figure this out. I have 3.55 with a 13 spd. I have a demandated ISX, pulling a skateboard. I run all over the country. Most of the time I’m running heavy, but sometimes I’m hauling insulation. What your telling me is keeping the truck around 1600 rpms when I’m heavy, and keep it on the lower side when I’m light? Just wanna make sure I’m understanding this?

Not to change subject but You also need to concern yourself heavily about that de-mandate programming if you value your equipment and the health of your engine.

Who did the ecm programming?

Your next step is to pull a copy of the program out of your ecm and send it to me for a proper review.

some educational reading in the mean time on this subject...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...5#pid13255

[Rawze]

(02-25-2021 )Willy1823 Wrote:  Alright so I’m learning here and trying to figure this out. I have 3.55 with a 13 spd.
...
I run all over the country. Most of the time I’m running heavy, but sometimes I’m hauling insulation. What your telling me is keeping the truck around 1600 rpms when I’m heavy, and keep it on the lower side when I’m light? Just wanna make sure I’m understanding this?

here is how i drive...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...8#pid24378

and yeah, if you keep it 1500+ when pulling hard instead of lugging it below 1400, the engine will last much longer.

[Willy1823]

How do I pull the ecm programming? And the shop I used had someone else come in hooked a laptop up to my truck, and then someone else remoted in and did the programming. So I’m not sure who actually did it.

[MageRoyal]

(02-25-2021 )Willy1823 Wrote:  How do I pull the ecm programming? And the shop I used had someone else come in hooked a laptop up to my truck, and then someone else remoted in and did the programming. So I’m not sure who actually did it.

yeah, u prolly got ripped off for a few thoudsand$$ for that trash too.

inline-6 adapter kit off ebay, about $300 bucks or so. A cheap-o laptop. The software is found in the Internets 4 free if ya just go lookin for it. no need to pay others for stuff you can lern to do youself.

owner op without adapter and insite software = owner op at the mercy of crooks and over-priced repair shop.

listen, ask, learn, & do. your road to proper truck ownership has just begun. that was this forum is all about.

[Rawze]

So,. This person stopped by here this Easter weekend. Really nice person by the way, I enjoyed their company. I help them review their programming. It was horrible to say the least. SOme company in Pensilvania did it that does a lot of delete programming and pushes the fixed-vane turbo's etc.. like a bunch of complete idiots.


It is the typical bad CM2350 delete seen spreading all over the internet here lately... same issues ...


* The SCR can was never hollowed out. It got so clogged up with soot that it was causing harm to the engine and turbo.

* Programming was horrible. The typical 'Jail-Break', set as few settings as possible to get the alarms out of the dash and hope-for-the-best type of engine destroying programming.

- engine still going straight into SCR and exhaust component warm-up modes, it never being satisfied ... causing all kinds of extra heat in the exhaust all the time... engine fighting the turbo.

- Injection timing in all operating modes way too high for the now blocked-off egr gas.

- not a single engine mode, was the egr gas requests removed from the programming at all.

- Even the little bit of stuff that was hap-hazardly switched off was so incomplete that it was not even funny. Horribly done.


The list of problems and incomplete things done incorrectly is quite long. This is the typical half-arssed de-mandate program attempts that has been seen here lately... I swear these morons are getting lazier and lazier. ... Welcome to the bad delete club...

THEY ALSO DID NOT do the hardware mods correctly...

* They did not remove the Intake air throttle valve, it was causing low boost problems... even though the turbo was over-spooling all the time to try to overcome it.

* They also did not hollow out the SCR canister. - This truck has run for 4 months, slowly loosing power and fuel mileage slowly dropping off.. then some of the gaskets between the exhaust cans blew out causing a massive exhaust leak under the passenger steps opf the truck. - THIS IS BECAUSE THE IDIOTS WHO DID THE DELETE DID NOT HOLLOW OUT THE SCR CAN AND TOLD THE TRUCK OWNER THAT IT WAS A PASSIVE DEVICE AND THAT IT DID NO0T NEEDD IT! -- HERE IS WHAT THIS TRUCKS OWNERS SCR CAN FACE LOOKED LIKE AFTER 4 MONTHS OF THIS NONSENSE LAZYNESS GARBAGE!!!!...
       
100% BLOCKED UP AFTER 4 MONTHS OF RUN TIME!!!

-- HE IS LUCKY HE HAD NOT LOST HIS ENTIRE ENGINE YET! due to the completely face-plugged SCR CANISTER that the delete shop idiots told him was not necessary to do... I SEE THIS WAY TOO OFTEN.. THESE DELETE SHOPS ARE COMPLETE RETARDS IF THEY THINK THAT SCR CAN IS GOING TO STAY CLEAN ALL ON ITS OWN!!!

-- really... I just don;t get it.... I shake my head in dismay at how utterly stupid these people and places really are.

[tree98]

Looks like coolant on that dpf doesn't it ?

[Rawze]

(04-07-2021 )tree98 Wrote:  Looks like coolant on that dpf doesn't it ?

I was thinking the same thing... however the front face of an older SCR element is usually tinted slightly reddish to begin with though.

[StormChaser]

I have been an O/O for 2 years. I have a 2017 Kenworth T680 with an ISX 15 550hp engine. 13 speed manuel Eaton Fuller Transmission, with 3.32 rear end. I am at my wits end with this truck.

I have put over $50,000 in repairs on this truck since Thanksgiving 2021. I cannot seem to keep it out of the shop for longer than a couple of days. I have utilized independent mechanics, small mom and pop shops, as well as Kenworth and Cummins shops. And the same issues continue to resurface.

I have replaced my water pump twice now (less than a year apart). I replaced my coolant reservoir because it started to leak from every possible location. I have had my valve cover gasket replaced twice. Once by independent mechanic, once by cummins in Orlando. When Orlando replaced it, they also replaced injector 1. The valve cover gasket is leaking again.

During last winter I got stuck up in ND in -34 degrees and a windchill of -56. My truck kept wanting to gel up. (Even with #1 diesel and 911 anti-gel.) I had to replace all fuel filters twice. After getting out of there, my turbo began to whistle. I took it to a mechanic recommended by Pittsburgh Power. I still had good pressure and pulling power, but the whistle was driving me crazy.

We realized that after idling the truck for about 10 minutes, the whistle would go away. That mechanic tried to tell me that the turbo blades could have gotten stuck in a new channel because of the cold. But If that was the case, why would it stop whistling. He took off the cover and we inspected it together. No excess play, and completely dry. They couldn't figure it out, charged me for an evaluation and sent me on my way.

I then noticed after a few months that I could see Grey smoke coming from the passenger side near the firewall whenever the truck did a regen. Even a passive regen. Ok I'm thinking exhaust manifold leak. Looked, couldn't find one. Went to a shop, they couldn't find one. Now I have another shop tell me that my EGR is leaking, which you can see some soot coming from near the EGR onto the exhaust manifold. There is some coolant on the downward pipe. But I do not know if that is a leak, or simply coolant from when my reservoir went. Which splattered coolant everywhere.

He also told me that it's probably leaking into the dpf filters, and that is the smoke I am seeing during regen. But I thought that it would be white smoke. It also doesn't explain why it's coming from near the dpf on the passenger side. Is it leaking from the dpf itself? Is there another exhaust leak he didn't mention? All I know is if his evaluation (done without removing anything or pressure testing or ANYTHING) if his evaluation is correct, it's thousands of more dollars that I do not have.

Then there is my A/C. The same day I replace my coolant reservoir, my A/C quits working. I take it to a tech, who after charging it says that the compressor isn't even pumping, that I need a new one. Well it had been 366 days since I replaced the compressor. I spent my last dime on the reservoir, so the AC had to wait. Finally take it to another mechanic (the same one who diagnosed the EGR) He says after draining and testing for leaks that it didn't have enough freon or oil in the system. That the system is fine, that the real problem is the controller on the dash. Even though it will go to different degrees of hot with no issue, and the sleeper is also pumping hot air.

The point of the matter is I have been to so many mechanics. Some seem competent, others not so much. I have had problems fixed, only to return again later. I have had crooks charge me ridiculous fees for simple fixes. Blocking me in their shops until I paid. I have lost trust and faith in the dealerships and the mom and pops. I am trying to find a mechanic I can trust. I joined so that I can educate myself more. So that I can do more repairs myself. But it is also nice to have a set of experienced eyes and hands on a job in certain situations. With the state of the economy, my truck continuing to break down is only making a difficult situation dire.