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Rawze · 05-20-2021, **(Subject: Old emissions vs new )**

(05-20-2021 )Tanker93 Wrote: Has anybody here gone a step further and just put an aussie cm2250 into their truck yet?

in the states, it would be just as illegal.

Also, they have internal cylinder EGR control and SCR and a post injection regen cycle for keeping the SCR clean.

They also suffer the carbon packing and other problems just like their DPF cousins.

Tanker93 · 05-21-2021, **(Subject: Old emissions vs new )**

(05-20-2021 )Rawze Wrote:
(05-20-2021 )Tanker93 Wrote: Has anybody here gone a step further and just put an aussie cm2250 into their truck yet?

in the states, it would be just as illegal.

Also, they have internal cylinder EGR control and SCR and a post injection regen cycle for keeping the SCR clean.

They also suffer the carbon packing and other problems just like their DPF cousins.

True on the legality side but to me it just seems simpler to build/fit an aus spec engine with a simple aftertreatment delete. Leaves no questions to the tuning of it then. Only downside for what you all do over there is that the vgt seems to benefit you more than say my particular application over here.

Rawze · 05-21-2021, **(Subject: Old emissions vs new )**

(05-21-2021 )Tanker93 Wrote: ...to me it just seems simpler to build/fit an aus spec engine with a simple aftertreatment delete. Leaves no questions to the tuning of it then. Only downside for what you all do over there is that the vgt seems to benefit you more than say my particular application over here.

A de-mandated ISX, is a de-mandated ISX once the stuff is missing. They are essentially the same (within the same tier). I have no idea what your trying to get at with that statement.

Either its programmed correctly or its not. The same gaggle of idiots who can't program an American engine worth a s$it, once those systems are no longer used, can't program a euro-5 or any other brand, make, model engine worth a d$amn either. Its a matter of severe ignorance and downright greed towards making that quick buck$$$ vs. learning how to do things right. The programming is not any more or less "difficult" between a euro-5 versus one with all the extra EGR stuff on it. All the same steps and things have to be done to get em right. if anything, the euro-5's with only SCR, I see more mistakes with them than the others most the time, cus those idiots who make programs for them think there is magic pixie dust inside the ecm or something and don't do half the squat things that they should be doing in them to keep em from that severely shortened engine life after such terrible poke-and-prod style of engine butchering. Most those dumb fools don't even know how to turn off the in-cylinder injection cycles nonetheless know how to keep it from trying to warm up a missing SCR canister and it getting stuck perpetually trying to do so.

Tanker93 · 05-21-2021, **(Subject: Old emissions vs new )**

roger

smorgan87 · 05-21-2021, **(Subject: Old emissions vs new )**

Tanker, unilevers built a cpl performance engines with aussie parts. If i remember right he used the aussie head and cam for better flow. This was done for performance tho not for better emissions or longevity.

John Doe · 05-22-2021, **(Subject: Old emissions vs new )**

(05-20-2021 )Rawze Wrote: I would leave the system as is and just keep after it properly. Install some kind of oil bypass system on it to keep the soot out of the oil, and regular EGR tune-up work. - Once the system get so old that it cannot keep up with the engine wear as everything gets old ... that is when you do something about it (most people end up making all those cans hollow and some properly made de-mandate programming that can be verified 100% safe by myself or one of the other ppl on here)... so that it does not cost a fortune to keep the truck running.

I have been very careful not to exceed the manufacture recommended 40k mile oil changes and have been changing the oil at 20k since I found out how tremendously harmful going 35k between oil changes was and now finding out even that may be too far between oil changes. My next plans for maintenance are to change the imap sensor, I brought the truck to a local shop that is very good with my truck but they don’t know too much more than me about emissions equipment so I’m learning how to work on the truck myself by watching your videos. I don’t think the engine has had the fuel pump replaced that are said to implode around 500k miles so I’m adding that to my to do list in the next month when I bring it down for maintenance. I want to replace the doser valve as well as the imaf. I bought the truck from arrow trucks and it was a us express truck and my friend who drives for them says they went 60k miles between oil changes ! Anything else you would recommend I do while I’m at it?

Rawze · 05-22-2021, **(Subject: Old emissions vs new )**

(05-22-2021 )John Doe Wrote:
(05-20-2021 )Rawze Wrote: I would leave the system as is and just keep after it properly. Install some kind of oil bypass system on it to keep the soot out of the oil, and regular EGR tune-up work. - Once the system get so old that it cannot keep up with the engine wear as everything gets old ... that is when you do something about it (most people end up making all those cans hollow and some properly made de-mandate programming that can be verified 100% safe by myself or one of the other ppl on here)... so that it does not cost a fortune to keep the truck running.

I have been very careful not to exceed the manufacture recommended 40k mile oil changes and have been changing the oil at 20k since I found out how tremendously harmful going 35k between oil changes was and now finding out even that may be too far between oil changes.
...

If I were to put a new jug of oil behind the seat in my cab, left it in the bottle, untouched, and un-opened, and drove my truck 60,000 miles ... would the oil inside the jug bad just because I moved the bottle 60,000 miles away from where I purchased it? ... oil breakdown is based on wear and use .. not a set distance that it has traveled.

STOP BASING OIL CHANGES ON A FIXED NUMBER/DISTANCE ... THAT IS RIDICULOUS!!!.. THE ENGINE OIL BREAKS DOWN BASED UPON USE ... NOT A SET MILEAGE!

here is the guidelines for the ISX...

- The amount of fuel that you use is a direct measure of how hard you are working your engine overall.

* Based your oil changes on fuel mileage (or equivalent engine hours). -- (At the bottom of post in this link - http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...617#pid617 ). The general rule of thumb for oil changes on the ISX is ...

Rawze Wrote:If your average fuel mileage every 10,000 miles is ...

less than 5 MG -- Change your oil every 8,000 miles or so.

5 - 6 MPG -- Change your oil every 10,000 - 12,000 miles or so.

6 - 7 MPG -- Change your oil every 12,000 - 15,000 miles or so.

7 - 8 MPG -- Change your oil every 15,000 - 18,000 miles or so.

8 - 9 MPG -- Change your oil every 18,000 - 22,000 miles or so.

above 9 MPG -- Change your oil every 22,000 - 28,000 miles or so.

Waterloo · 05-23-2021, **(Subject: Old emissions vs new )**

(05-22-2021 )John Doe Wrote:
(05-20-2021 )Rawze Wrote: I would leave the system as is and just keep after it properly. Install some kind of oil bypass system on it to keep the soot out of the oil, and regular EGR tune-up work. - Once the system get so old that it cannot keep up with the engine wear as everything gets old ... that is when you do something about it (most people end up making all those cans hollow and some properly made de-mandate programming that can be verified 100% safe by myself or one of the other ppl on here)... so that it does not cost a fortune to keep the truck running.

I have been very careful not to exceed the manufacture recommended 40k mile oil changes and have been changing the oil at 20k since I found out how tremendously harmful going 35k between oil changes was and now finding out even that may be too far between oil changes. My next plans for maintenance are to change the imap sensor, I brought the truck to a local shop that is very good with my truck but they don’t know too much more than me about emissions equipment so I’m learning how to work on the truck myself by watching your videos. I don’t think the engine has had the fuel pump replaced that are said to implode around 500k miles so I’m adding that to my to do list in the next month when I bring it down for maintenance. I want to replace the doser valve as well as the imaf. I bought the truck from arrow trucks and it was a us express truck and my friend who drives for them says they went 60k miles between oil changes ! Anything else you would recommend I do while I’m at it?

If you are hauling general freight, like I do with a dry van, I change my oil every 12,000 to 15,000 miles in my CM-871, and yes, mine is deleted, it has been for quite a few years... There is no difference in these ISX motors vs say an old Detroit or even an old ISX, when the manufacturer recommended 12,000 to 15,000 mile oil changes. It is criminal to take a motor much farther than that, especially a soot producing EPA motor. The soot is trapped in the oil and works like sandpaper internally as it is now trapped in the oil vs being blown out the stack. Proper oil changes are critical to keeping these EPA motors healthy. And do not waste you money on synthetics, good old conventional oil is fine, Rotella, Mobil, Walmart Super Tech, all good brands, I think most of us use Rotella here, I do and so does Rawze.

One thing I would do, is to get under the valve cover of the motor to inspect the cam, lobes and rollers. Running extended oil changes tends to chew up the cam and rollers, so it would be a good idea to remove that cover and inspect, and run an over head too. Adjust the valves, as I am sure it has never been done.

The fuel pump too, you need to take apart, inspect and replace the recommended parts and pieces internally. There are plenty of threads here on what you need parts wise and how to do it. This should be part of a regular maintenance program, every 300,000 to 400,000 miles on rebuilding that pump. And I would do it to yours ASAP, even if it looks like it was already done. Get in there and rebuild it, so that you know exactly when it was done, what parts were used, etc. This is critical to you keeping that truck on the road and you out of bankruptcy.

If you are going to keep the emissions, I would suggest going to Amsoil and purchasing their universal oil filter relocation kit. Use that as a secondary filter to collect the soot in the oil that escapes the primary filter. Here is the kit, https://www.amsoil.com/p/heavy-duty-bypa...tem-bmk30/ You will need to purchase your own lines, or custom make them. You can use any filter you want that fits the filter housing, we are not Amsoil folks here, most of us use regular old Rotella and Fleetguard filters, none of that overpriced snake oil here.

Or, do what many folks here do, call Mr Hagg in Griffin GA, just a few miles south of Atlanta, and let him go through everything and fix that emission issue for good. He will run that overhead, install the gauges you will need to become profitable and do a basic once over on that truck and motor. It will be worth the trip and you will sleep easy at night knowing everything was taken care of, PROPERLY taken care of. Rawze is right around the corner too...

Haggai Automotive and Diesel Repair
1228 High Falls Rd,
Griffin, GA 30223

Opens 8AM Mon

Phone: (678) 688-8107

Rawze · 05-23-2021, **(Subject: Old emissions vs new )**

(05-23-2021 )Waterloo Wrote: ... It will be worth the trip and you will sleep easy at night knowing everything was taken care of, PROPERLY taken care of. Rawze is right around the corner too...
...

If I did not know any better, I would think this was an advertisement... but I do know better.

It's sad but there are very, VERY few places that I would let be advertised this way. Hags in Griffin GA is one of the few, as they have proven themselves time and again.

-- It's too bad that more shops are not like this and want to do the right thing above all else. Instead, most places just focus solely on profit margins. I went over there a few days ago... spent the entire day while testing some new injection timing and other settings for the X15 engine. - I saw someone there doing his own work in the parking lot.. hag occasionally going out there and giving advice, lending a hand here and there, possibly a hand tool or 2 ... The guy was genuinely broke financially, and willing to do his own work to dig himself out of this hole .. just needed a little help and guidance. -- How many repair shops have you ever seen where the shop owner let you do things because you were broke and broke down.. lending a hand and helping a guy down on his luck get back on the road without even charging you for his time. - At the end of the day, the guy was almost in tears (and I was genuinely impressed), said to me that he thought that no one like this any more existed these days. His eyes were watering up while he was saying it.

That is not the first time that I have seen a grown man in tears at his place. This is as real as it gets.

- Don't get me wrong.. Hags is not a push-over, his shop is there to make a profit for their hard work ... but when he sees someone who genuinely needs a hand .. he steps up and does everything he can to help them without asking anything in return when it becomes necessary.