Cm2350 Turbo Help please

[GhostHauling]

So my turbo hasn’t given any issues knock on wood but after the dealership did a software update because of unrelated work I notice I was making more boost up to 36psi is as high as I let it go normal I never go over 30psi typically around 20 to 25 is when I back down. I was doing a EGR tube up, IMAP $84 EGR back pressure $140 and Delta p $200. I found oil in my air intake in between air filter and turbo it was filled in the rubber joint on valve cover. I cleaned and and started freaking, I pulled turbo inlet and pretty clean a little bit of Super black gum which I’ve assumed oil same as in rubber hose connector, I cleaned the turbo and began researching, my trucks at 700k original turbo, I called the dealer to price they only have a reman for $7500 without actuator. I went and pulled CAC line off turbo and it seemed pretty clean to me minus one dark stain inside which I’m gonna try to post this pic of, inside the hose also seemed clean I could not separate the orange rubber connectors they’re rusted so bad on the screws and springs and non removable rings, to separate would likely break them so I couldn’t see inside the orange where I’ve seen oil in other peoples pictures. Inside my Turbo Clean air outlet I could see what looked like little white specs which now have more worrying they are metal fragments. I had an oil sample 15,000 miles ago and it came back normal with normal wear metals from CAT lab. I’m basically being killed slowly with these increased costs of everything and my old equipment. So changing the turbo will be a very significant cost at this moment after I spent $3500 in the last 2 weeks on my Truck & Trailer so I’m hoping someone who knows seen this can guide me. I will change this turbo now if needed I cannot kill my engine but because so many people talk about changing turbos that don’t need to be changed I want to be as certain as possible. Thank you in Advance for your time & God bless !

[GhostHauling]

Other pictures

[tree98]

What does the compressor wheel look like? Is it rubbing a groove in the housing? Take the clean air intake boot off and look at the compressor wheel and housing.

If you do end up needing a turbo get yours rebuilt at YTS in Georgia it's a lot cheaper and better than a cummins reman.

[GhostHauling]

The compressor wheel looks really good, just a tiny bit dirty with black dried stuff nothing crazy around the outer most edge where the rubber intake boot connects, and I emailed YTS yesterday just waiting to hear back. How long does it take YTS to rebuild a turbo ?

[Rawze]

It would not be $7500 if you did the work yourself.. your doing nothing but wasting a whole lot of money every time you take that truck to a stealers#it!.

NEXT: Although 700k miles is considered a lot of mileage for a VG turbo, unless your having boost problems, the turbo should not be replaced.


-- THAT TURBO does not have a rubber o-ring as a face seal.. the oil seal is like a piston ring with a gap in it.. any crank case fumes buildup inside the engine.. it causes the turbo to slobber. Any vacuum at the intake, it causes it to slobber too.

NEXT: IT IS NORMAL for the turbo to bleed a bit of oil (its called turbo slobber) if you have been idling a lot... especially if you have any blo-by form the engine, given it has 700k+ on it ... and your crank case filter cannot keep up with it. OR IF YOU DO NOT CHANGE THE CRANK CASE FILTER OFTEN ENOUGH.

Do you have the maitenence-free crank case filter installed?
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...376#pid376

With 700k+ on the truck, I would suspect the blo-by is higher on the truck, causing some pressure buildup and making the turbo bleed a bit of oil. - ANY crank case pressure from blo-by will also chew up overhead cams too. It is nothing to play with. I see people all the time neglect their crank case filter, then wonder why they got chewed up cams and turbo's that slobber oil all the time.

[tree98]

(08-12-2021 )Rawze Wrote:  I see people all the time neglect their crank case filter, then wonder why they got chewed up cams and turbo's that slobber oil all the time.

How does it cause chewed up cams? I'm not at all disputing it just curious why.

[GhostHauling]

(08-12-2021 )Rawze Wrote:  It would not be $7500 if you did the work yourself.. your doing nothing but wasting a whole lot of money every time you take that truck to a stealers#it!.

NEXT: Although 700k miles is considered a lot of mileage for a VG turbo, unless your having boost problems, the turbo should not be replaced.


-- THAT TURBO does not have a rubber o-ring as a face seal.. the oil seal is like a piston ring with a gap in it.. any crank case fumes buildup inside the engine.. it causes the turbo to slobber. Any vacuum at the intake, it causes it to slobber too.

NEXT: IT IS NORMAL for the turbo to bleed a bit of oil (its called turbo slobber) if you have been idling a lot... especially if you have any blo-by form the engine, given it has 700k+ on it ... and your crank case filter cannot keep up with it. OR IF YOU DO NOT CHANGE THE CRANK CASE FILTER OFTEN ENOUGH.

Do you have the maitenence-free crank case filter installed?
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...376#pid376

With 700k+ on the truck, I would suspect the blo-by is higher on the truck, causing some pressure buildup and making the turbo bleed a bit of oil. - ANY crank case pressure from blo-by will also chew up overhead cams too. It is nothing to play with. I see people all the time neglect their crank case filter, then wonder why they got chewed up cams and turbo's that slobber oil all the time.

Thank you Rawze for taking the time to reply, and that was their price for just parts, I don’t have them do any work unless I’m not confident enough to do it myself, I had them drop those brass rings in the injector cups and do 2 overhead adjustments the last adjustment last week simply because the tech is a good guy and he did a good job on it before those brass rings have been great, but yes there is a maintenance free crank case filter and the blowby I believe is fairly normal my engine was overhauled 340k ago they put in the anti-polishing piston and new liners and set the main rod which is basically all the invoice says was done it was a warranty fix, I got the truck in October 2020 I’ve put 65k on it and I’ve been meticulous about maintenance basically watching all of your videos and reading and learning all that I can and I service my truck between 10k to 12k nothing to far over that and I’ve never noticed any oil consumption if there is it’s not noticeable to me, also back in January I changed the oil and over filled with oil ( I was on a hill and I read 14 gallons of oil to fill ) and I drove it like that for a day 500 miles before getting a flat ground reading it and draining like 3 gallons of oil.

[tree98]

(08-12-2021 )GhostHauling Wrote:  ..
I changed the oil and over filled with oil ( I was on a hill and I read 14 gallons of oil to fill ) and I drove it like that for a day 500 miles before getting a flat ground reading it and draining like 3 gallons of oil.

Ha ha ha!!! Sorry but that's funny. That's a REALLY steep hill man.

[GhostHauling]

Yeah I know it’s been a learning curve and it was the dead of the winner in West Virginia and I couldn’t find a shop to do the service I only have someone to do the service if the weather is bad and I have nowhere safe to do it, anyways I’m doing the best I can wheel truck has had the maintenance free filter since I got it and it just said blank on the crank case filter housing. Also I’m wondering if I should change the sea CAC hose because of the rust on the clamps and rings. I grew up being told don’t fix something that’s not broken but where’s my truck I am so often doing preventative maintenance.