DIY Flywheel housing gasket/clutch/RMS

[Nostalgic]

The 2000 lb jack from harbor freight is about the cheapest workable solution. Make sure it's chained and/or strapped well to the transmission. Castors are cheap, so you need a smooth hard surface for it.

[Rawze]

I would recommend an actual tranny jack.. and strapping it down well. A truck tranny suddenly shifting can put you in the hospital real fast, if not kill you if it rolls off the jack and onto any part of you.

Also... it is 4x more difficult not to damage the pilot bearing, or clutch, when re-installing it, if it is not exactly at the correct angle when sliding it it back in place. -- Hence a proper tranny jack has adjustment knobs to get that tranny at just the right angle, alignment, height, etc.

personally,. if I absolutely had to replace my tranny myself, I would most likely build a stand for, and remove the cab of the truck. Use an overhead crane, as I have no shop floor, and can't stand working upside down with really heavy components like that any ways. .. just a thought.

[Aleeex]

As mentioned harbor freight 2000lb jack. The transmission is “750 lb” but the 1000 lb jack will break

[dhirocz]

I think once the trans and clutch is out, I can drop the pan and unbolt the starter and support the bottom of the engine from the pan rail with a bottle jack and a 4x4…unloading the rear mounts and allowing me to service the flywheel housing gasket. Already planning on just replacing the housing entirely. I’m assuming if I replace the flywheel housing, the Cummins tool to replace the rear main won’t be necessary (since I should have easy access while it’s still off)?

If I remember correctly, we’re you guys using a sealant to aid the gasket or should I just put it in dry, torque it and call it done?

[Aleeex]

I didn’t remove the oil pan when I did mine

[Nostalgic]

Read through the rear seal installation procedure. 10% soap solution on the outer ribs. You'll need the install tool to do it correctly, along with checking depth of metal portion vs the rubber lip with a dial indicator to ensure it's installed correctly.

Also, make sure to follow the procedure installing your new housing to a T. And double check your runout measurements carefully. Your crank runout in relation to the rear housing is up there in importance to longevity like checking liner protrusion is during a rebuild.

Some advocate using detroit jelly on the housing gasket, but personally I do not. I just rub a little dab of super lube on my finger tips and run them along the rubber part. Just enough to leave a trace, but invisible to the eye. Don't want any on the metal part. I do this so that it is less likely to grab or tear away from the metal part of the gasket any as the housing is torqued down.

[Bengy88]

(05-23-2023 )Rawze Wrote:  I would recommend an actual tranny jack.. and strapping it down well. A truck tranny suddenly shifting can put you in the hospital real fast, if not kill you if it rolls off the jack and onto any part of you.

I can 100% agree with this. I had a tranny jack that I bought used from someone collapse and fall on me a few years back. The cylinder blew out. When it did it landed on my hand and cut it 80% of the way off. Since then I play no games with transmissions. I have plates that I have made so that I can bolt transmissions securely to the jacks and everything. Don’t take any chances man.

I’m just a few hours away from Savannah and I could do the job for you but I’m booked for like 3 months on bigger jobs