General Questions for Cummins X15

[RByrd]

I just purchased a new 2025 truck with the 565/2050 X15. I've previously only ran de-mandated ISX's and have little to no experience with the emission system. I'm trying to get specs or diagrams that show where all the sensors are located, how often I should check the sensors, proper maintenance procedures, etc. My owners manual has almost no useful information. I know nothing about a regen or if / how often I should do a manual regen. I want to be able to take care of the engine and equipment but wondering where I can get the information to properly do so. Lastly, the X15 has some type of box near where my crankcase filter used to be on the ISX. I have the high flow air compressor on the X15. Does this box have something to do with the air compressor intake? The air compressor on my old ISX had a rubber line that pulled air directly from my engine intake manifold, but it looks different on the new X15? I don't want to waste a lot of folks time, but just checking to see if someone could point me to where I can locate the information on emission sensors, how often I should inspect them, etc. Thanks.

[Getting by]

These x15s have a naturally aspirated air compressor in which the intake piping goes across the front of the engine. It goes through the alternator bracket then another tube to the turbo. They have an o-ring that tends to suck dirt and dust the number six cylinder. I smeared rtv in the fittings on mine to help prevent that.

Also you shouldn't have to do a manual regen unless something is wrong. A healthy system should regen every 100-103 hrs.

[tree98]

1. imap sensor ( the one on the intake manifold) 2.exhaust pressure sensor (the tube coming out of the exhaust manifold goes into it)
3.EGR differential pressure sensor (on the EGR crossover tube)
4. EGR temp sensor (also on the EGR crossover tube)

Replace these sensors about every 2 years with GENUINE CUMMINS PARTS THAT YOU BOUGHT FROM THE DEALER. The ones you find online that are cheaper and look identical right down to box they come in are Chinese fakes.

That "box" above your air compressor is part of the crankcase vent system. Cummins says it's maintenance free and there is no filter inside it.

In regards to that coupler on the turbo inlet that the air compressor pulls air from, that problem was supposedly solved a few years ago with an updated connection that has an o-ring in it. So I'm sure your brand new one has the updated part or a better set up altogether.

I'm guessing you have the "performance" series judging by the hp level. If that's the case you should also have the fuel pump with the dual line head. If so you shouldn't have to worry about the fuel pump needing rebuilt every 400k miles like the other pumps do. Allison at Haggs said she never saw one of those come apart. Thats good because they can't be rebuilt anyway because cummins doesn't sell individual parts for those pumps, you have to buy the whole pump.

[Rawze]

Highway trucks that drive 10+ hours at a time regularly ...

== Regular EGR-circuit tune-up work (about every year or 2 at the most) to keep everything from getting sooted up and running AMOK.

== Pull the cans and have them baked, de-ashed, and flow tested every 2 years or so as well.

Do this to both the engine and the cans and it will stay healthy for a very very long time.


Local trucks that hardly drive for 10+ hours at a time somewhere...

== Tune up work every year. Pull the cans to have them cleaned every year.

===============

If someone is not wanting to outright de-mandate it, there is still some custom tuning that can be done...

== It is also possible to have everything operate as normal while still shutting off most of those dreaded derates and shutdowns only. Make the system more lenient so that they do not leave you stranded on the side of the road whenever they do act up or give faults. The systems, CEL lights, warnings, regen, etc. will all still operate as normal, but someone can finish their deliveries etc. and get it back home / to the place of their choice to fix on it, without it shutting you down.

[RByrd]

Thanks for the info. While I have you, I just made my first run today with a stacked heavy haul trailer. I am grossing 88,000 lbs. My oil temp stayed around 225 degrees. Is that normal? Also, while running down the road, the truck maintained 38-40 lbs of oil pressure, but when I stopped after 360 miles and was doing my cool down, at 900 rpm the oil pressure dropped to 20 psi then when I low idled for a few minutes at 650 rpm, it dropped to 15 lbs of oil pressure. That seemed very low to me but I’m not familiar with these engines. The truck has less than 500 miles on it. It’s the 565/2050 X15 with 4.30 rear ends. Thanks again

[Rawze]

(12-09-2024 )RByrd Wrote:  ...at 900 rpm the oil pressure dropped to 20 psi then when I low idled for a few minutes at 650 rpm, it dropped to 15 lbs of oil pressure. ...

If the oil temp was (hot from a long pull) above 225+ or so, then that idle pressures are somewhat ok .. but if the oil temp is 218~ish, and its that low, then that is on the low side of things .. maybe something has too much clearance inside the engine.

One thing that will help is to add one gallon of decent modern brand of gear-lube (10-20% mix) at each oil change to help keep viscosity up.