bad oil cooler

[ktbtrucking]

there was no gasket in the box with oil cooler, have measured old one with new one and new one is slightly thinner,
old one gas bottom/side where meets plain , new one is extended

need a gasket there, right?

have it figured out,there were two orings in the bag from the dealer

[ktbtrucking]

reassembled.
flushed radiator twice with "simple green" ( 3 gal green 9 water)
3rd time 2 gallons of red coolant and rest water, still have some oil residue at the top of water tank ( put new one)
will drive it a little on Monday and see what happens, will try to test old cooler also for leak

regarding torquing
* 75 ft-lbs torque on turbo mounting bolts instead of what the book says.
book says 75 on turbo mounting bolts
35 ft-lbs for oil cooler
44 ft-lbs for manifold

friends of mine recommended more torque but followed the book
only put 95 ft lb on turbo
any thoughts on torquing for future???
the engine has 1.2mil miles
when idling and when I take oil dipstick out it is pournig oil - is this engine done???

Thank you in advance

[stevesparts]

"when idling and when I take oil dipstick out it is pournig oil"
you mean its blowing out the dipstick tube???

[ktbtrucking]

yes , oil goes out of dipstick tube and
when remove cap from oil fill tube oil stops blowing out

[Brock]

Usually flush it out with dish soap and water a few times.

[hhow55]

Fleetguard Cummins Restore Coolant System Cleaner

[Hammerhead]

(04-29-2017 )ktbtrucking Wrote:  ...
the engine has 1.2mil miles
when idling and when I take oil dipstick out it is pournig oil - is this engine done???

Thank you in advance

If you have oil coming out the dipstick tube, this indicates excessive crankcase pressure to me, and removing the dipstick relieves the pressure while also pushing oil out the dipstick tube, that becomes relieved when you remove the very oversized (relative) oil fill cap. I suspect the following;
1)Crankcase breather filter is plugged
2)Crankcase breather vent hose from the filter housing to atmosphere is plugged
both of these situations would be instantly relieved by the fill cap
3)Turbo seals are leaking excessive pressure into the crankcase
4)Cylinder rings are worn or cylinders are glazed enough to allow excessive blowby for the crank breather and the dipstick tube, but not also the fill tube
5)Significant internal cylinder pressure leakage from time and wear indicating an overhaul is or is soon to be required

All the chemicals in the world to clean the oil residue from the surge tank will do nothing to solve the crankcase pressure issue.

[Rawze]

(04-30-2017 )Brock Wrote:  Usually flush it out with dish soap and water a few times.

I do not recommend this at all. It takes 20 flushes to get all the dish and/or dishwasher soap out, and even then, red coolant does not last long before ph goes bad.

I went through that nightmare, will never do it again!.

[Roysbigtoys]

(04-26-2017 )Rawze Wrote:  

(04-25-2017 )ktbtrucking Wrote:  have cm 870, removed all parts today, there was no access/ or limited access to top screws of egr cooler so had to remove exhaust manifold to remove egr cooler
put most of screws into diesel overnight was thinking about oil (give advices for next repair)
have most of parts for reassembly tomorrow
will do some more pictures so it might be helpful for others

will use anti-seize compound on exhaust manifold and turbo-manifold screws
please let me know if you have any thoughts regarding assembly

Just a few things to keep in mind. If I were doing this job I would ...

* New bolts for the exhaust manifold if they are old.

* New coolant pipe bushings for the EGR cooler. They should come with new o-rings installed.

* Polish the inside of the EGR cooler pipes and the feed tubes where the egr cooler bushings go to help reduce possibility of a leak.

* Follow torquing procedures and pattern for oil cooler and for egr cooler.

* Take your time.

* Too much anti-sieze on the exhaust manifold bolts is not the best idea. Only use a very tiny amount.

* Polish and re-paint the exhaust bolt bushings with some hi-temp paint and let them dry before re-installing them.

* A light coating of Anti-sieze on all coolant o-rings, gaskets, and banjo fittings.

* Use a torque-wrench for all bolts including any pipe and/or banjo fittings.

* 75 ft-lbs torque on turbo mounting bolts instead of what the book says.

* Don't forget to re-calibrate turbo if the actuator on top was removed from it.

Like I said. Just some considerations on how I would do things. I don't like doing a job twice.

Rawze I want to know the reason why you recommend using only a very tiny amount of anti seize. As a man this goes against everything I know......more is always better...lol.