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(08-28-2018 )SIDE_SHOW Wrote: ... I did my checks by unplugging the actuators one at a time and seeing which one didnt do anything amd i found ...
Assuming it is not bad ECM programming for a moment ...
Despite where you got this idea or if anyone said to do this, You cannot check actuators on the ISX by unplugging them. It will fool you every single time into thinking you have bad actuators. I have even demonstrated this to people in the past on perfectly healthy engines.
What happens is that once it sees an actuator unplugged, the ecm randomly fails them and refuses to use 1 or more properly for several minutes even after you have plugged them back in. A mechanic will always swear there is a bad actuator because plugging it in and unplugging it will make no difference at all after the first time it is unplugged. - Whats even worse, is that it will not do this for all of them, but usually only for 1 or 2 of them at a time. The most common one for the ECM to fail, then refuse to use again for several minutes (10+ minutes sometimes) is the timing actuator on the rear bank. sometimes it will do it to the front bank, sometimes it will do it to a fueling(metering) actuator.
In other words,.. it is impossible to use this method to troubleshoot them at all because it is so unpredictable. I have also seen several shops in the past use this trick to sell people new actuators when you don't need them out of sheer stupidity simply because they refuse to believe that the ECM does this.
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The proper method is to first do an injector leak down test ...
Make sure there are no leaky injectors. Then next is a cylinder cut-out test ...
If it passes and runs good on all cylinders, yet still runs rough, the next test is to pull apart the actuators and check the shanks of the plungers for step wear... http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...619#pid619
Also there are several other things like proper overhead valve adjustment, pressure testing the engine for air, egr, and exhaust leaks , checking it for proper boost levels, etc.etc.
Also there is the fact that a bad intake pressure, exhaust pressure, egr Delta-P and other sensors can make one have low fuel mileage and act up too, but not usually rough idle. If those sensors are more than 250k miles old, they are likely in need of replacing, yet they rarely ever will throw codes for any of them.
This was all assuming you have factory programming, But here is what troubles me in your post too...
Is it demandated(deleted)?. if so, by who?. -- Sure, you may have a faulty thermostat but it usually does not include high oil temps along with it. However, bad ECM programming by those big-name delete shops will cause a lot of the same symptoms you have just described including the high oil and high radiator temps. Bad programming or incorrect programming for your ser# engine can cause a lot of internal friction and can cause those heating issues among other problems like prematurely fretting liners and causing head gaskets to eventually blow out. There are more bad programs and bad programmers out there making delete programs that a person can shake a stick at, so if it is de-mandated, I would start with getting that straightened out by one of the recommended people from here along with all the other things I just mentioned above. If you suspect programming at all, go to quickserv and look up what program is supposed to be in your engine. Then install the original factory file that matches your exact engine ser# and not some other horsepower program like a lot of dumb-arsses do. Installing the exact, correct program is very important on the CM870's especially, as there were several variations of cam lobe offsets, injector offsets, and many other hardware tweaks as they were being made based on ser# ranges and not just internal parts alone. The program must match all of the hardware offsets your ser# engine was built upon and many people do not know this about CM870's as it was not publicly avail. information. - You can always have a proper demandate program put back in it after you get it running right. Solve one problem at a time instead of over-stepping yourself and guessing in circles.
Thank you rawze...That's good to know about the actuators... I'm young but I'm very old school I don't have any of the computers anymore since we shut our shop down... even when we had it open we rarely messed with anything newer than maybe 2003 and that was a stretch... I'm not good at diag on these newer motors as I cut my teeth on older mechanical engines BC3 AND 4 3406 A and B model... I guess I need to get with the times... I do not know if it has been De mandated I do know everything is there.... I'm gonna take it to a shop here in San Antonio thursday and have them put it on the computer and see what the ecm says... now... where can I get that leakdown tool and how much is it? The actuator I put on there was a good used one from the junk yard... I suspect a number of things being wrong but im trying to do all of this and get another truck and two trailers ready to roll by Friday... I am going down south to get the new to me 2012 Pete with a cm2250 in it... I sold my 1989 freightliner FLC WITH a 3406 b model cat in it to buy this 2007 Pete a 2012 Pete and 2 2007 reefer trailers.... hopefully I didn't make a huge mistake? I know these engines have allot of issues but from what i have heard if you tune them right and take care of them they are really good motors... oh well I guess we will see Plz give me a part number on that leakdown tool if you can and thx again for your help I'll update you guys as soon as I do those tests
