Chassis node power input
09-29-2020, (Subject: Chassis node power input ) 
Post: #10
RE: Chassis node power input
A node is any point or module connected to the CAN BUS which can communicate on the CAN BUS. It should have its own power and ground and a twisted pair of wires for communication. Basically any module capable of communication.
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09-29-2020, (Subject: Chassis node power input ) 
Post: #11
RE: Chassis node power input
(09-29-2020 )Wired1 Wrote:  A node is any point or module connected to the CAN BUS which can communicate on the CAN BUS. It should have its own power and ground and a twisted pair of wires for communication. Basically any module capable of communication.

That is about as generic a definition as it gets. That whole datailed out definition screams "node = Networked device with wires"... could literally be just about anything in the damned vehicle these days ...

Descriptions like these are exactly why most certified morons these days can't find their way out of a paper-bag when they go tru all that cert. training. ...lol

Not trying to insult anyone ... Just pointing out that over-techiical stupified fancy-talk definitions and descriptions like these .. found in books etc.. by technical writers and people who make these standards ... that kind of info is completely useless to the guy who owns his equipment and is simply trying to find where to look towards what is wrong.


-- One of the most horrible standards these days related to automotive is the J1939 technical standards definitions and manuals on how the protocols etc.. operate... Every single technical manual and definition related to J1939 is completely whacked up so badly with over-zealous technical-fancy-talk complete garbage that no normal human being can even read it to get an understanding on how the protocol works without scratching their heads every other word .... EVEN THOUGH it is not nearly as complicated as those books and manuals would have someone believe... I think most of this kind of over-the-top, over-descriptive, gotta throw in about 40 technical fancy words to make it sound more important than it is, complicated descriptive garbage is coming straight out of those communist 'Woke-gender-derranged" colleges these days.

Most of what I have been seeing lately is horrible... it is like someone describing the atomic details and anatomy of something seriously complicated, having its bindings, adhere-ratio, oil-bonding, adhesion layers, special hydration retaining layers .. and their trying to tell you with as much fancy-talk and technical speak as they can to make themselves sound like some kind of super-scientist ... and all along they are trying to tell you how to make a goddamn simple cheese sandwich. -- I see is as another modern form of narcissism.

just my own opinions, no one has to agree.


User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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 Thanks given by: DieselKid , Chamberpains , Waterloo , hhow55
09-29-2020, (Subject: Chassis node power input ) 
Post: #12
RE: Chassis node power input
   
(09-26-2020 )alborz Wrote:  I get these two masseges on dash
chassis node power input, check fuse
fault code: 5127
primary fog lamps fault
fault code: 2388

I checked all fuses in engine compartment and inside the cap. all good and have power.
The chassis code on and off appears on the dash, but the primary fog code is constant. No power at the bulb lights and they'er good.
2015 Peterbilt 579
Any input will be appreciated.

Problem solved
Thank you everyone for your input.
I share my findings, incase, incase might be helpful to somebody in this forum and save them money.
in my case, after some research I found all the exterior lights end up in the fuse box under the hood and from there it go to that damn chassis node box which is under the cab, exactly under driver side above air tanks. Peterbilt 579.

I found although if the fuse is good there might be a break on a wire between fuse box and the node and you need to check the wire harness visually to find the break. I was lucky that the break was on a wire right on the B- plug going to node.
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 Thanks given by: snailexpress , Waterloo , Mattman , tree98
09-29-2020, (Subject: Chassis node power input ) 
Post: #13
RE: Chassis node power input
(09-29-2020 )alborz Wrote:  Problem solved
Thank you everyone for your input.
I share my findings, incase, incase might be helpful to somebody in this forum and save them money.
in my case, after some research I found all the exterior lights end up in the fuse box under the hood and from there it go to that damn chassis node box which is under the cab, exactly under driver side above air tanks. Peterbilt 579.

I found although if the fuse is good there might be a break on a wire between fuse box and the node and you need to check the wire harness visually to find the break. I was lucky that the break was on a wire right on the B- plug going to node.


when you put the new connector and wiring, etc.. and get it fixed, paint the hell out of the back side of that connector with Flex-seal (the can version, not the spray).

BTW: thanks for sharing the results. I am sure it will help someone else in the future.


User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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 Thanks given by: alborz
09-30-2020, (Subject: Chassis node power input ) 
Post: #14
RE: Chassis node power input
Just to be clear, Rawze is recommending the flex seal that can make a boat. Not the flex seal that can use a screen door to patch a boat.
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 Thanks given by: Waterloo , tree98
09-30-2020, (Subject: Chassis node power input ) 
Post: #15
RE: Chassis node power input
I use liquid electrical tape, it's really durable stuff.

https://amzn.to/2Gtp2Gz

I wonder if its the same ? Flex seal is much cheaper.


User's Signature: Warranty??? Yeah right, I am the warranty!!!
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