Hello all. I have a 22 Peterbilt with a 565/2050 and I'd like to add a little power, be able to read and clear codes, and monitor EGT, etc. Is the {puke dee eye} good for all that? Is the tune decent? If not, maybe {pi44-poor power box}?Thanks in advance. This is my 1st post...
You don't have to look very far into this site to realize those are both very harmful ways to try to accomplish what you're looking for. Use the 'search' bar located right above the 'Gossip Box' and you'll find all you need to know about these so-called 'professional tuning companies.'
Usually what's found here is actually not the lack of engine power, but the lack of attention to set-up detail when purchasing a rig to begin with. (i.e. Trans and rear ratios). You have to purchase a truck that the ENTIRE drivetrain will be best suited for the work it's about to be subjected to. Weights, speeds, climate, terrain, even type of truck to begin with (aero vs square-nose) etc....all factors which need to be considered before settling on a truck.
What are the rest of the specs on the truck you are referring to?
I am really going to go out on a limb here and assume you are just simply that mis-informed for a moment.
-= otherwise, you are about to get yourself banned off my forum here for trying to push, or even suggest using that complete engine killing, big-name garbage, not worth putting in a damn lawn-mower, nonetheless a $40,000 commercial engine. Those tuning boxes and big-name places that you mention are the VERY WORST OF THE WORST THINGS, PLACES, AND GARBAGE PRODUCTS BIG-BELT-BUCKLE-DISEASE, PROMOTED TRASH THEM ALL!!!>..
Those tuning boxes and big-name companies are nothing but big-advertised engine killing trash, and they are the absolute worst of the worst of anything out there!. - YES.. they are really that bad!.
I hope your here to learn, and to get that s$it you just spewed in your first post out of your head, because around here we do not promote not tolerate people who abuse their equipment with exactly the trash you mentioned there.
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GO GET yourself a cheap windows 10 laptop for a few hundred $$$, and an inline-6 adapter kit off amazon, ebay, maybe obd2.com.. or somewhere else for about $300 or less ... and that is all anyone needs to be able to properly troubleshoot their engine, check codes, have their engine program looked at or changed, etc... and is a more permanent solution and proper investment towards the longevity of their equipment.
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As far as power/torque goes ///... IT IS FAR, FAR CHEAPER TO RE-GEAR THE THE REAR ENDS IN THE DAMN TRUCK SO THAT IT CAN PULL THE LOADS MORE EFFICIENTLY THAN IT IS TO TURN THE ENGINE UP AS HIGH AT IT CAN GO, BY FAR!!!...
HERE is the average of how what your asking about in terms of "more power" effects the average truck... this even before considering other engine life-span shortening factors...
* At 1650 ft-lbs torque, lifespan is easily around 1.1 to maybe 1.3+ Million miles ( or ~25,000+ hours ) before the head has to come off it for one reason or another.
* At 1750 ft-lbs torque, lifespan is usually around 900k - 1+Million miles ( or ~22,000 hours ) before the head has to come off it for one reason or another.
* At 1850 ft-lbs torque, lifespan is usually around 650k - 700k miles ( or ~16,000 hours ) before the head has to come off it for one reason or another.
* At 2050 ft-lbs torque, lifespan is usually around 550k miles ( or roughly 13,000 hours ) before the head has to come off it for one reason or another.
* Above those power levels.. exponentially, the lifespan is shortened.
NOTE: The overall Horsepower however, has far less effect on engine longevity than torque does. This means that bumping up the power a bit instead of torque, and then re-gearing the vehicle to be more suited for its needs and loads, is the proper solution to getting it to "pull better" at the end of the day.
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HOW LONG DO YOU WANT IT TO LIVE BEFORE YOU DROP $25,000 - #35,000 in inframe kits!!?>
(08-16-2023 )SquareOne Wrote: [ -> ]You don't have to look very far into this site to realize those are both very harmful ways to try to accomplish what you're looking for. Use the 'search' bar located right above the 'Gossip Box' and you'll find all you need to know about these so-called 'professional tuning companies.'
Usually what's found here is actually not the lack of engine power, but the lack of attention to set-up detail when purchasing a rig to begin with. (i.e. Trans and rear ratios). You have to purchase a truck that the ENTIRE drivetrain will be best suited for the work it's about to be subjected to. Weights, speeds, climate, terrain, even type of truck to begin with (aero vs square-nose) etc....all factors which need to be considered before settling on a truck.
What are the rest of the specs on the truck you are referring to?
The truck is a 389 with a RTLO 20918 trans and 336 rears. I pull livestock , tanker, and feed.
(08-16-2023 )Rawze Wrote: [ -> ]...
HOW LONG DO YOU WANT IT TO LIVE BEFORE YOU DROP $25,000 - #35,000 in inframe kits!!?>
I certainly wasn't trying to offend anyone or get kicked off. Someone suggested I check this site out when I asked about tuning, so I am certainly not familiar with how this all works. If I purchase the equipment you suggested, who can help me with a reliable tune? I'm an older fella and I don't drive real fast. I've been trucking since the early 80's, and just want a little pep. I am very fussy on Maintenance and do oil changes every 12-15k. My last truck was a deleted X15, with 600,000 miles and still going, but I plan on keeping this one in tact because the laws are tightening up and I already get decent fuel mileage. I appreciate any guidance.
If you want more pep and to actually "Wake it up" per say, ... then maybe start by getting rid of those garbage 3.36 rears that are geared too tall for hauling anything but a bunch of flowers. - It is far cheaper re-grar the back end properly for what your hauling than trying to make the most expensive thing in the drive-line work harder (the engine) to make up for a s#itty set of rears that are designed to lug the engine do an agonizing death below 1500 RPM's.
With 3.36 and taller ears, the truck won't get out of its own way compared to something geared more appropriately .. even at 600HP, once you put a heavy load behind it.
Here is a chart ...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...2#pid71572
And if your other truck is de-mandated, then you need to have the program copied out of the ecm and e-mailed to me to have it looked at ASAP, to ensure it is not causing progressive damage over time. More than 90% of all delete programs are extremely harmful to the engine. Again.. a laptop and an inline-6 adapter is needed. Might as well be running sand in your oil otherwise.
Will I also need special software to do this stuff? Also, can you point me in the right direction for a good tune? Just not sure how all this works. Pardon my ignorance on the computer
(08-16-2023 )Keystone Cattleman Wrote: [ -> ]Will I also need special software to do this stuff? Also, can you point me in the right direction for a good tune? Just not sure how all this works. Pardon my ignorance on the computer
Once you have an adapter, laptop, and get yourself set up to be able to maintain and troubleshoot your truck properly yourself, it is simply a matter of copying the file to/from the engine computer and going from there if you want something done to the programming.
(08-16-2023 )Rawze Wrote: [ -> ] (08-16-2023 )Keystone Cattleman Wrote: [ -> ]Will I also need special software to do this stuff? Also, can you point me in the right direction for a good tune? Just not sure how all this works. Pardon my ignorance on the computer
Once you have an adapter, laptop, and get yourself set up to be able to maintain and troubleshoot your truck properly yourself, it is simply a matter of copying the file to/from the engine computer and going from there if you want something done to the programming.
I'll get to work on it. Thanks