Cm871 codes 2961 2764 4214

[in2trux]

(03-30-2016 )JetHauling Wrote:  Hi guys, I recently purchased PETE 388 with a 500 in it. I'm having problems where the truck will limit the turbo to 20psi. Before the turbo limits and the truck is running proper the check engine light will flash for a few seconds and go away, with the occasional quick and short turbo "burp"After the turbo derates they won't come on again.. Using the Cummins software I was able to pull this codes. Sometimes it will do this for an hour, sometimes for the entire day and carry over until the next morning.. I've replaced the sensor on the intake because it was all blocked up with soot.my outside air temp gauge is traded way below what it should be, I'll be changing that this weekend as well.
thanks for your help

You need to replace the exhaust gas pressure sensor for sure and check that the tube feeding it is clear.
If the IMAP was blocked that bad, so is the Delta P, the one with two tubes on the intake manifold, that will cause the "burp" as you call it. I call it a snort or cough.
To clear the 4214 code you need to do a DOC maintenance reset with insite.
Also need to compare ambient air temp and barometric pressure readings are accurate.
Do you have insite?

[JetHauling]

I changed both v clamps and gaskets on each side of the doser I pulled that to inspect and everything looked good Does anyone have a diagram of the sensors that would be effected by these codes. When I google these codes it seems as if it's a "common" problem. I just haven't found a solid solution

[JetHauling]

e the exhaust gas pressure sensor for sure and check that the tube feeding it is clear.
If the IMAP was blocked that bad, so is the Delta P, the one with two tubes on the intake manifold, that will cause the "burp" as you call it. I call it a snort or cough.
To clear the 4214 code you need to do a DOC maintenance reset with insite.
Also need to compare ambient air temp and barometric pressure readings are accurate.


I changed the pressure tube because I had one lying around in the packaging
The delta p is the two hard tube in the intake side? If so I cleans them when I cleaned the egr on the intake side

[JetHauling]

Ok so I'm playing around with regen button... When I turn off auto regen, she's running perfect. If I switch it back to auto my boost hesitates and is limited again

[Waterloo]

Rawze has his six part EGR tune video up, watch that and it will take you through all of the sensors...

[Rawze]

It sounds like others are pointing you in the right direction. I say Get that amb temp sensor fixed asap too.

Here is something else to consider,.. and a different direction based on what i have seen. It has not been mentioned yet ...


2961 = Exhaust Gas Recirculation Temperature - Data Valid But Above Normal Operating Range - Least Severe Level


There are only a couple reasons you can get usually this code.

* the sensor is unplugged or malfunctioning.

* You have an after-market EGR cooler instead of one from the factory.

* You have a factory EGR cooler that is so sooted up, that it cannot dissipate heat any more (very rare but possible).

This one code will derate the hell out of the engine and make low boost, turbo cough, etc. !!!. The engine is trying to protect itself from excess cylinder pressures so that you don't blow a piston through the side of the engine block!. -- it thinks the intake temps are above 400 degrees into the engine, coming from the EGR because the egr cooler is not dissipating heat properly.


If this code is re-occurring it will certianly derate the crap out of the engine and cause it to run badly. THE ONLY TIME I HAVE EVER SEEN THIS CODE ON SOMEONE'S TRUCK and the sensor was NOT unplugged, -- IT WAS BECAUSE THEY HAVE AN AFTER-MARKET EGR COOLER !!. Those "tougher" after-market egr coolers do this notoriously, and I have seen some (not all) that were so bad, it would discolor and burn the paint on the venturi pipe, making it darker than the rest of the engine.

Make sure the sensor is good (they fail very rarely), but if you have had, or in its past have had the EGR cooler replaced! -- THAT IS YOUR MOST LIKELY CULPRIT -- I have seen it a hunderd times, and those after-market ones ARE A SHEER RIPP OFF THAT DO NOT WORK PROPERLY!

If it is not the sensor, and you have a factory cooler, then you should get it pulled off of there as soon as possible before a chunk of the carbon buildup that is making it not work properly comes loose and destroys the turbo with it. I have seen it at least a dozen times in the past, especially if someone buys a junkyard egr cooler and tries to install it. One guy i knew lost 4 turbochargers in a row before he realized what he had done.

Tags:

egr cooler, after-market cooler, after-market, after-market egr cooler, excess egr temp, high egr temp, excess intake temp

[Rawze]

2764 = Exhaust Gas Pressure 1 - Data Valid But Above Normal Operating Range - Moderately Severe Level

Is most likely one or more of these...

* Bad Exhaust Back-pressure Sensor (exhaust gas pressure sensor).

* Your turbo is over-spooling due to either some problem, like ...
- *** Turbo VG ring is hanging up at a high position.
- *** Bad ECM programming (wrong CPL, bad custom tuning, etc).
- *** Improper instillation or out of calibration and running too high positions.
- *** Bad Delta-P readings (bad sensor or stuck EGR valve) making it over-spool to try to force EGR gases into the EGR circuit.
- *** the engine thinks it is at a high altitude when it is not. Bad Altitutde sensor/readings. (Also happens when you try to put one of those after-market "ugly-fix" devices on. Thsoe things are truly terrible).


* The DOC or another exhaust component is severely BLOCKED UP! or is cracked. and the engine cannot breathe. this can also damage the engine severely like mentioned below.

======================


When you combine these two --- It can be ANY combination of the problems i mentioned above,.. but it can also be severe back-pressure at the exhaust manifold due to the turbo going into what is known as "Over-close" positions, and blocking off the exhaust. If this is happening, it will also cause low boost, and low power. If you drive it in this condition against this excess exhaust back-pressure --- YOU ARE COOKING YOUR ENGINE AND IT CAN AND WILL ...


* Make cracks in the top of one or more of your pistons. Then they/it will fail several weeks to months later even after the problem is fixed, when the exhaust gases finally drill holes through them to the bottom. You cannot know this is happening without boroscoping the engine a couple weeks AFTER the problems have all been fixed.

* Cause a cracked Intake or exhaust Valve.

* Cook the injectors and cause them to leak, become weak, and start to go bad. This will also make it run a bit rough at idle after someone does this.

* Cook the liners and damage them.

* Cause the engine to drop a valve, damaging the head severely.

* Crack the head.

* Send a piston through the side of the engine block.

===================

Do not say you weren't warmed,. and even after you fix your problems, it can take a few weeks or a couple months for the problems from damage will finally show after doing such a thing. If someone had driven it like this and it is now running rough at idle, etc. due to cooked injectors, etc. .. your risk is VERY HIGH for a future piston or other severe damage failure.

Tags:

cooked injectors, bad injectors, cooked engine, cracked piston, cracked valve, cracked intake valve, excess blow-by

[JetHauling]

Thanks for the responses. She has a very clean smooth idle, and like I said I've discovered that when the regen switch is in the off position she runs perfect like she should.. I'm going to change the back pressure switch and see how she runs tomorrow.. This weekend I'll check the "delta" tube again... Where is the Altitude sensor and how do I check this

[Rawze]

(03-30-2016 )JetHauling Wrote:  Thanks for the responses. She has a very clean smooth idle, and like I said I've discovered that when the regen switch is in the off position she runs perfect like she should.. I'm going to change the back pressure switch and see how she runs tomorrow.. This weekend I'll check the "delta" tube again... Where is the Altitude sensor and how do I check this

Use Insite to see what the barro pressure is and compare it to a weather-map that shows pressure for that day.

some trucks have this sensor directly, but others use the crank case pressure sensor and imap sensor to calculate it instead.