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Shokar92

Okay so I called a mobile guy to come down told me he would charge $200 bucks to come down and then $100hr after that. He hooked his computer he had which was not Insite but another program and told me that a code 61549227.. and that he couldn't do anything and that I had to tow the truck to dealer... I looked online and all I can find is if I break the numbers down. I dont know if whatever he was seeing was different because of the program. I am investing in my own insite except its going to take another 2 weeks arrive.

If anyone can help that would be wonderful otherwise. I will have to call Motor Trucks who is a International truck dealer here.. Hopefully I don't end up spending as much as I would just swapping the engines out...

I have also changed both Cam position sensors because there cheap.. I found oil on both of them but they looked fine.

I changed all diesel filters now

-I tried starting fluid again.

- I know that if I cycle the key about 5 times it starts for 2-3 seconds longer

-I also am thinking about changing the Fuel solenoid on the fuel pump.

I am changing the Egr differential pressure sensor because when I broke the code up and I found code 615 I googled it and found EGR Valve Delta Pressure sensor-shorted
I changed this about 8 months ago with the IMap sensor which I will change also.

I know if I had Insite that I would be way better off but even when I called the dealers there so busy to come out they told me it would take over a week to come out..

and I understand that some people might think its stupid to throw parts at it but that basically what the dealers do anyways. why not buy your parts online for a quarter of the price from reliable buyers who actually sell millions of things with good reviews.

I bought both cam sensors for $40 bucks
The fuel solenoid is around $125 bucks
IMap sensor is about 20-30 bucks
EGR differential sensor is like 40 bucks if i got it send to a dealer I would be pay atleast twice the price if not more and plus all the labour I would be in the grands just for a small thing.

Rawze

Your last post implies symptoms of air getting into the fuel system.

If I owned it, long before I would tow it, I would take the fuel tank bleeder tubes and block the one on the passenger side off. Take the one on the drivers side and use a pressure regulator and air supply to pressurize it to 10 psi maximum. Let it sit a while and look for fuel leaks/damp fuel lines, filters, etc. - cycle the key a few times and then crank it up. If it runs, then it is air getting into the fuel system causing it to die.

Whatever you do, don't open the fuel cap with the fuel tanks under 10 psi pressure. It could seriously injure someone.

Let me get this straight... SO your truck will not run. You decide to throw some sensors at it. - So you buy some cheap-o sensors off the Internet that you can't confirm the quality of (potentially making your situation worse) and think that is a good thing? -- sorry, but I do not agree with that at all, farm truck or not.

Shokar92

Hi Rawze,

I tried that and the truck started for 5 seconds longer, I can't see any leaks anywhere. We tried this 3-4 times

I also went to Peterbilt instead and grabbed all those sensors instead still no start. They didnt have the fuel solenoid or the Delta Pressure sensor so I waiting till Monday for those

Is it possible that the lift pump isnt making enough pressure or a check valve is bad?
Because I do hear the pump change noises sometimes.

I had a guy hook up insite there are codes for the following

Short in secondary fuel level circuit code 3804
and that's all

The mobile that came today also said I might not be getting enough pressure to the injectors

When I do crank and it starts for 2-3 seconds there is no smoke coming from the muffler

snailexpress

(11-03-2017 )Shokar92 Wrote: Hi Rawze,

I tried that and the truck started for 5 seconds longer, I can't see any leaks anywhere. We tried this 3-4 times

I also went to Peterbilt instead and grabbed all those sensors instead still no start. They didnt have the fuel solenoid or the Delta Pressure sensor so I waiting till Monday for those

Is it possible that the lift pump isnt making enough pressure or a check valve is bad?
Because I do hear the pump change noises sometimes.

I had a guy hook up insite there are codes for the following

Short in secondary fuel level circuit code 3804
and that's all

The mobile that came today also said I might not be getting enough pressure to the injectors

When I do crank and it starts for 2-3 seconds there is no smoke coming from the muffler

Probably someone driving by can stop and help you. Where are you located?
If I understood it right you have 2013 truck and engine is CM 2250 or 2350. What heck the fuel solenoid they sell if 2250 or 2350 has no fuel solenoid. Morons. This is not CM 871 or 870.
To check lift pump take out plastic cover from fuel bleed port and push valve inside. Key should be in ON position, no cranking. Is fuel coming out?
Open an account on Cumminsquickserve, register engine serial number and you can find all information about your engine and parts numbers

Tanker93

Have you tried doing what Seyer76 had suggested?

Shokar92

Hi, there is diesel coming from the bleed port.
My located about 40 miles from the Blaine USA close the US/CAN border
It's a city called Ferndale, Washington

I'm going to try the turbo next can anyone direct me to that thread to loosen
the turbo mounting bolts that's the last thing I can pretty much do before towing it.

snailexpress

You don't need to unbolt turbo. Just disconnect intake side from CAC.
Did you have open account on Cummins quick serve to educate yourself or you like to be milked dry by mobile service or any other morons who wants your money for nothing?
Here is picture where to disconnect and PDF from cummins what to check.

Shokar92

It started!! It's on the turbo side. I am going to follow Rawze's video and take the turbo actuator off my question is now if the actuator is bad and turbo looks okay is it fine just to just change the actuator out and leave the turbo? Obviously peterbilt thinks this is a bad idea..

schISM

(11-04-2017 )snailexpress Wrote: You don't need to unbolt turbo. Just disconnect intake side from CAC.
Did you have open account on Cummins quick serve to educate yourself or you like to be milked dry by mobile service or any other morons who wants your money for nothing?
Here is picture where to disconnect and PDF from cummins what to check.

Sorry Snailxpress but that won't do any good to remove that cac boot. True you don't have to remove the turbo mounting bolts(but your gonna when you find out its the turbo) you can also remove the egr piping like Seyer76 suggested. If the engine is turning over but won't start on ether then either something has gone terribly wrong in the front geartrain and your cam isn't spinning allowing the valves to open and close(unlikely) or something is preventing the engine from moving the intake charge into the combustion chamber like an obstructed exhaust. The vgt can restrict exhaust flow to nothing and create just such an obstruction. It's been discussed on here before(use the search) your goal to diagnose just such a problem is to vent the exhaust manifold before the turbo. If it starts and runs once vented you've found the problem. Good luck.