Rawze.com: Rawze's ISX Technical Discussion and more

I’ve been getting a pooping noise when turning or going over bumps and thought it was the spring bushings but the drag link looks off.

Here’s another angle

And another

Definitely looks suspect. Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth quickly while your watching it. Any play at all and it's shot. It's also very unsafe to drive it if it is worn out, not mention a guaranteed red tag.

See if it has any in and out play at the joint. If it does, then its shot!.
It can be checked by someone yanking the steering wheel hard one way, and then the other way rapidly with the truck turned off ... and someone else observing that joint (and others) to see if it has any in/out play.

BTW: That particular model of drag link is known to wear out like that and cause serious truck accidents!.

It is nothing at all to play around with, and can kill someone!.

Got a OEM one ordered.What is the proper torque specs on the drag link?

I don't know probably around 150 ft. Lb. but it's a taper and there's a cotter pin that prevents the nut from coming off. If you got it snugged good with a 1/2" breaker bar it will be fine.

(11-17-2023 )Redland1 Wrote: [ -> ]Got a OEM one ordered.What is the proper torque specs on the drag link?

This is just how I do them, I have changed out quite a few of them over the years with people. .. you should always follow the manual though...

NOTE: Removing the old one properly does NOT involve smacking downward directly on the face of the threaded part/stud or it with the loosened nut on top of it. Instead, once the nut has been removed completely, use a pair of 5-lb hammers in tandem to hit the joint (receiver arm) on both of its sides (not front and back) at same time, ringing the joint like a bell. It will pop out after a couple hard hits. This method is the recommend one in most of the old manuals for a drag link replacement, and prevents damage to anything.

The proper torque spec is 130-FT.lbs as an initial torque for the one you have in the PIC there,.. and for most truck models of that size actually. ... then tighten-only just far enough to align the next place to install the locking pin/key.

If you polish with scotch-brite real good to get the mating surfaces smooth + acetone the h#ell out of both the tapered end of the arm, and the tapered receiver hole (make them extremely clean) , and apply an upward force from the bottom of the joint via long piece of 2x4 wood, you can torque it with a normal torque wrench without it spinning on you.

DO NOT use an IMPACT~!!!>.. EVER on those drag-link joints!.. It is DEATH if you over/under torque it, and it comes loose, or strips out later on from over/under torque later on!.


(Of course, I have to make a ... liability disclaimer) -- )
ALWAYS FIND THE MANUAL AND FOLLOW ITS PROCEDURES for safety reasons, and do not take the advice on this forum as your only source, or as literal information. Just like my signature says... --- I AM Full Of S__T!