Valvoline Premium Blue

[tree98]

Why would anyone want to extend drain intervals? You like playing with fire?

[Rawze]

(02-16-2020 )schISM Wrote:  Just figured I’d share some info regarding different brands/types of oils. I pulled a sample at roughly 30k miles on my new truck. I changed the factory fill 10w30 with Amsoil 0W40 synthetic and pushed the drain interval to 20k, as you can see the the sample wasn’t so great, low TBN #’s lead me to believe it’s not worth the money. My second sample was good ‘ole Chevron 15W40 dino oil and not only was it a third of the price of Amsoil it performed better in retaining TBN numbers. The most recent sample was my normal cold weather oil(I only run synthetic in the cold months) Mobil 1 0W40. Expensive but still cheaper than Amsoil and if you look at TBN #’s it flat out spanks the other two brands and would be a very good oil for those who push longer drain intervals. The Mobil one isn’t recommended for newer trucks with all the emissions in place as it’s only rated SN not CK4 but I’ll risk it. No mandate, no problem though.

that first oil sample is terrible (far right column). Huge amount of wear in that thing according to the report.

The second one looks significantly is better (middle column).

The Last one (far left) looks the beast..

---HOWEVER -- I SEE SOME BIG RED FLAGS ION YOUR STATEMENT ABOVE!!!


FIRST AND FOREMOST!!--- IF YOUR EXTENDING YOUR OIL DRAIN INTERVALS--- SAY GOODBYE TO YOUR OVERHEAD CAMS!!-- PLAIN AND SIMPLE!--- SEEN PLENTY OF GUYS TO THAT GARBAGE AND PLENTY OF SAME EXACT GUYS SAY THEIR OVERHEAD CAM WILL NOT LAST MORE THAN 300-400K MILES AT A TIME BECAUSE OF 20K+ OIL CHANGE INTERVALS!> -- THOSE WEAR METALS,SOOT AND DEPOSITS ACCUMULATE AND CLOG UP THE CROSS CHANNELS IN THE ROCKER ARM AND TAKE THINGS OUT OVER TIME, I DON;T CARE HOW SUPER-DUPER YOUR OIL IS, OR WHAT AN OIL SAMPLE SAYS EITHER !!!!!!!!!

Next ---- NONE OF THIS DATA HAS ANY RELEVANCE WHATSOEVER!!!!---- YOU HAD A RECENT INFRAME (OR NEW ENGINE) AND IT IS BLATANTLY OBVIOUS THAT ALL THOSE NUMBERS ARE VERY HEAVILY SKEWED DUE TO THE ENGINE STILL IN ITS BREAK-IN PERIOD!>..

THAT DATA, FOR COMPARING ANY TYPES OF OILS AGAINT EACH OTHER --- IS COMPLETELY USELESS!.

SURE, I DON'T LIKE A LOT OF THE SUPER-EXPENSIVE OILS OUT THERE, THEY ARE MOSTLY A WASTE OF MONEY ... BUT USE VALID INFORMATION WHEN COMPARING THEM, AND STOP MAKING ASSUMPTIONS BASED ON BAD DATA!!!

I AM NOT A FAN OF THE OVER-PRICED AMSOIL AT ALL, BUT I GRANTEE YOU IT IS NOWHERE NEARLY AS BAD AS THAT DATA WOULD IMPLY!

GIVE THAT ENGINE ANOTHER 100K MILES TO SETTLE IN AND DO 3 OIL SAMPLES / 3 CHANGES WITH EACH BRAND IN A ROW,... THEN SEE WHAT THE ACTUAL RESULT DIFFERENCES REALLY ARE!!!

IF you are in an extreme environment (extreme cold or torturing desert) for extended periods of time + have to start the engine in extreme cold very often,.. then a synthetic is NOT A BAD CHOICE -- BUT YOU HAD BETTER NOT EXTEND THE OIL DRAIN INTERVAL ABOVE WHAT IS RECOMMENDED ON THIS FORUM -- IT BEING BASED ON FUEL MILEAGE (or equivalent hours) IF YOU VALUE YOUR EQUIPMENT.

LASTLY: IF THERE IS ANY WAY POSSIBLE to pre-heat that engine (wabasto heater, electric, etc.), then THERE IS NO NEED FOR THE SYNTHETIC and therefore CHEAPER TO INVEST IN A PRE-HEATER SYSTEM most of the time any ways. - Just something to consider as well, as once the engine is at operating temp and running down the roads,.. over-priced synthetic oils HAVE ZERO ADVANTAGE OVER DINO OILS!.

[schISM]

(02-16-2020 )tree98 Wrote:  Why would anyone want to extend drain intervals? You like playing with fire?

Sorry, I should’ve clarified my statement. “Longer drain interval” in my book is 20k miles or “I should’ve changed it this weekend but I missed it so it’ll have to wait for next weekend”. Not “sampling says it’s fine so I’ll run it till it doesn’t.”

[schISM]

(02-16-2020 )Rawze Wrote:  

(02-16-2020 )schISM Wrote:  Just figured I’d share some info regarding different brands/types of oils. I pulled a sample at roughly 30k miles on my new truck. I changed the factory fill 10w30 with Amsoil 0W40 synthetic and pushed the drain interval to 20k, as you can see the the sample wasn’t so great, low TBN #’s lead me to believe it’s not worth the money. My second sample was good ‘ole Chevron 15W40 dino oil and not only was it a third of the price of Amsoil it performed better in retaining TBN numbers. The most recent sample was my normal cold weather oil(I only run synthetic in the cold months) Mobil 1 0W40. Expensive but still cheaper than Amsoil and if you look at TBN #’s it flat out spanks the other two brands and would be a very good oil for those who push longer drain intervals. The Mobil one isn’t recommended for newer trucks with all the emissions in place as it’s only rated SN not CK4 but I’ll risk it. No mandate, no problem though.

that first oil sample is terrible (far right column). Huge amount of wear in that thing according to the report.

The second one looks significantly is better (middle column).

The Last one (far left) looks the beast..

---HOWEVER -- I SEE SOME BIG RED FLAGS ION YOUR STATEMENT ABOVE!!!


FIRST AND FOREMOST!!--- IF YOUR EXTENDING YOUR OIL DRAIN INTERVALS--- SAY GOODBYE TO YOUR OVERHEAD CAMS!!-- PLAIN AND SIMPLE!--- SEEN PLENTY OF GUYS TO THAT GARBAGE AND PLENTY OF SAME EXACT GUYS SAY THEIR OVERHEAD CAM WILL NOT LAST MORE THAN 300-400K MILES AT A TIME BECAUSE OF 20K+ OIL CHANGE INTERVALS!> -- THOSE WEAR METALS,SOOT AND DEPOSITS ACCUMULATE AND CLOG UP THE CROSS CHANNELS IN THE ROCKER ARM AND TAKE THINGS OUT OVER TIME, I DON;T CARE HOW SUPER-DUPER YOUR OIL IS, OR WHAT AN OIL SAMPLE SAYS EITHER !!!!!!!!!

Next ---- NONE OF THIS DATA HAS ANY RELEVANCE WHATSOEVER!!!!---- YOU HAD A RECENT INFRAME (OR NEW ENGINE) AND IT IS BLATANTLY OBVIOUS THAT ALL THOSE NUMBERS ARE VERY HEAVILY SKEWED DUE TO THE ENGINE STILL IN ITS BREAK-IN PERIOD!>..

THAT DATA, FOR COMPARING ANY TYPES OF OILS AGAINT EACH OTHER --- IS COMPLETELY USELESS!.

SURE, I DON'T LIKE A LOT OF THE SUPER-EXPENSIVE OILS OUT THERE, THEY ARE MOSTLY A WASTE OF MONEY ... BUT USE VALID INFORMATION WHEN COMPARING THEM, AND STOP MAKING ASSUMPTIONS BASED ON BAD DATA!!!

I AM NOT A FAN OF THE OVER-PRICED AMSOIL AT ALL, BUT I GRANTEE YOU IT IS NOWHERE NEARLY AS BAD AS THAT DATA WOULD IMPLY!

GIVE THAT ENGINE ANOTHER 100K MILES TO SETTLE IN AND DO 3 OIL SAMPLES / 3 CHANGES WITH EACH BRAND IN A ROW,... THEN SEE WHAT THE ACTUAL RESULT DIFFERENCES REALLY ARE!!!

IF you are in an extreme environment (extreme cold or torturing desert) for extended periods of time + have to start the engine in extreme cold very often,.. then a synthetic is NOT A BAD CHOICE -- BUT YOU HAD BETTER NOT EXTEND THE OIL DRAIN INTERVAL ABOVE WHAT IS RECOMMENDED ON THIS FORUM -- IT BEING BASED ON FUEL MILEAGE (or equivalent hours) IF YOU VALUE YOUR EQUIPMENT.

LASTLY: IF THERE IS ANY WAY POSSIBLE to pre-heat that engine (wabasto heater, electric, etc.), then THERE IS NO NEED FOR THE SYNTHETIC and therefore CHEAPER TO INVEST IN A PRE-HEATER SYSTEM most of the time any ways. - Just something to consider as well, as once the engine is at operating temp and running down the roads,.. over-priced synthetic oils HAVE ZERO ADVANTAGE OVER DINO OILS!.

Hey Rawze, my point intended was not the gradual decline of wear metals, though some might be interested in how long it takes for new trucks to break in, but of different oils being able to keep the inside of the engine cleaner than others. My understanding of the TBN of any given oil is the ability to retain the additive package that’s depleted over time or degradation due to the engines operating conditions. If you have a higher TBN at the end of a standardized maintenance schedule then that oil should be in theory a better choice. Correct me if I’m wrong but I don’t believe the amount of wear metals affects the depletion of any oils additives package. As far as what oil gives better wear protection it’s my opinion that as soon as the actual oil starts flowing and has formed a hydrodynamic wedge between whatever surface it’s lubricating there is absolutely zero, zilch, nada difference in oils. Nothing. Expensive synthetics or cheapo minerals, as long as it’s being pumped throughout the engine lubricates the same and that’s why I only run synthetic in the winter. Approximately 3 oil changes in the winter months at an increase of $53.60 per change for synthetic is in the budget. As far as a webasto or other preheater I don’t think the ROI constitutes the expenditure. And just a quick word to the wise I wouldn’t suggest anyone shoving a nippco heater or the likes up under your Paccar powered truck to preheat it you might find your plastic oil pan isn’t too tolerant of it.

[Rawze]

(02-16-2020 )schISM Wrote:  ...
Hey Rawze, my point intended was not the gradual decline of wear metals, though some might be interested in how long it takes for new trucks to break in, but of different oils being able to keep the inside of the engine cleaner than others. My understanding of the TBN of any given oil is the ability to retain the additive package that’s depleted over time or degradation due to the engines operating conditions. If you have a higher TBN at the end of a standardized maintenance schedule then that oil should be in theory a better choice. Correct me if I’m wrong but I don’t believe the amount of wear metals affects the depletion of any oils additives package. As far as what oil gives better wear protection it’s my opinion that as soon as the actual oil starts flowing and has formed a hydrodynamic wedge between whatever surface it’s lubricating there is absolutely zero, zilch, nada difference in oils. Nothing. Expensive synthetics or cheapo minerals, as long as it’s being pumped throughout the engine lubricates the same and that’s why I only run synthetic in the winter. Approximately 3 oil changes in the winter months at an increase of $53.60 per change for synthetic is in the budget. As far as a webasto or other preheater I don’t think the ROI constitutes the expenditure. And just a quick word to the wise I wouldn’t suggest anyone shoving a nippco heater or the likes up under your Paccar powered truck to preheat it you might find your plastic oil pan isn’t too tolerant of it.

Thanks for the clarification. You are somewhat right about the TBN alone,.. I looked at the whole thing (as a lot of people might do) I suppose and saw huge jumps in iron and other wear and could see that something was amiss .. After that, the beer took over.

As far as TBN vs new engine, would depend on how much residual solvents, etc. may still be present in the block/head, but it is far less effected (like you say, additive package) than the rest.