ISX CM871

[Dieselboy]

Edited

[Rawze]

Like I said before.. it can be difficult to determine what happened, or if a repair is justified by just looking at photos when the damage is not so obvious to determine everything/what is wrong. Someone has to be standing there in order to get the whole scene sometimes.

[Rawze]

(06-12-2023 )Dieselboy Wrote:  ..
Green is what was in it when I bought it. It went to a Cummins shop in Jacksonville twice (I know now they are likely idiots) but they didn't say or do anything about the green coolant.

The problem with using the wrong type(s) of coolant in a wet-liner engines .

(original ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...14#pid1114 )
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(posted 03-15-2016) ...
Here is some info on coolants that I have collected ...

Types of coolants that can be used in a wet-liner Diesel engine (ISX, Detroit, CAT, etc...)

Conventional coolant (usually green)/cheapest -- You need to add an SCA (typically 10 Oz per 4 gallons) and maintain the Nitrate level at all times, checking it at about every oil change... You need to constantly maintain it through testing and additives, or it will cavitate on the liners and eat through them, destroying the motor. I have seen a few truck owners destroy their engines like this,... These engines are NOT like car engines,... you cannot just dump in green coolant and forget about it,... It HAS to be maintained and monitored closely!.

GREEN coolant is NOT your friend on a wet-liner engine at all!!,.. and running cheap green can be very harmful over time if neglected even a little bit. Commercial wet-liner engines simply are NOT designed around green coolant, and some engine makers can even void your warranty if you do this!.

Here is a picture of what happens to liners with neglected coolant systems and no nitrates!...


(the pitting in this photo is deep enough that coolant started seeping into the cylinders. This happened only a few weeks after someone started using straight water in their engine instead of proper coolant.)


(after doing my own reading and digging into this subject, as best I can tell) ...

Pre-charged coolant (usually purple, blue, or pink). This stuff is just like cheap GREEN,... but has an initial dose of SCA. You don't need to use additives initially when dumping some in, but it HAS to be maintained just like green coolant after it is put in.

G-05 coolants. Comes pre-charged with SCA package. Occasional Flush is required with this stuff (aout every 300 - 400k miles or so). SCA testing and maintenance is required about 2 times a year.

DEX ( Dexcool) / Orange coolant you see at Wal-Mart, etc... -- NOT very good stuff for a big-rig, and NOT designed for wet-liner engines. It will mix a bit with red in a pinch,... but NOT with green!... It will become very acidic!,... Just stay away from it, that is my recommendation.


Heavy Duty Extended Life Coolants (RED Coolant). Come pre-charged with everything needed for wet liners. Testing and maintenance is needed about 2 times a year. It usually will last about 500k miles or more. I think if you want a coolant you can dump in and pretty much forget about,... this is what you should be using.

Specialty coolants -- Evans. Waterless,... There is no testing required for the stuff other than watching its color,... If it turns dark,... It is going bad and getting acidic,... attacking your aluminum components (radiator etc.). It is hard to get if you have a coolant leak,.. and CANNOT be mixed with any other type of coolant,... nor water. This stuff is NOT recommended. Here is why... http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...14#pid1114

[Rawze]

(06-12-2023 )Dieselboy Wrote:  ...
Rawze, I am headed down to the shop this morning. Is there anything I should ask them about while I'm there? Is there anything you'd like me to get closer pictures of? I can't thank you enough for posting your thoughts on my motor and the horrible situation it's in.

Its too late!... they already have it all apart and you were unfortunately naive enough to let them tear into it by trusting the network of OEM morons initially.

Might as well taken it to Half-arssed-rebuild-r-us.com. I see another premature eventual engine failure in its future. - As you will not be able to tell them how to do the job right, nor would they listen any ways. Those garbage-can OEM facilities have no clue how to build the engine to extend its life properly and it is what it is at this point.

Save you damn moneys like mad .. learn how to work on it and care for it PROPERLY - YOURSELF!,.. and eat the fact that you did not do nearly enough research + put way too much faith on those clowns to begin with. You are now at their mercy.. and believe me... whatever they do to it will be mostly half-arssed (barely by the book specs, half the s$it not even torqued properly, speed-gun happy no give-a-s#$it repairs, etc.), and will not last nearly as long as it should.

[Colter]

I did skim a bunch of this post so someone may have said something already. Given how new the liners appear and the lack of an anti polishing ring there's a good chance these are aftermarket parts or this engine has sat in unsavory conditions for many many years. I've seen moisture cause rust buildup around rings when improperly stored and once an engine is back in service that rust scrubs off and you have issues.

[Tberg]

Picture 3 Hole number 2, that piston looks really really weird. Why does it look like a golf ball? My guess being from down south is flooded. The unfortunate part is its already apart, you would need to throw everything in the motorhome and tow it somewhere else, or straight to your own place at this point.

[Dieselboy]

Edited

[tree98]

Ive heard it said that there's always sand in the air within 30 miles of the ocean, also humid salt air of course. My guess is it sat at an RV park near an ocean most of it's life and if started was shut off before it even warmed up.

[Dieselboy]

Edited