ISX and Bypass Oil Filter Systems

[JimT]

yeah, this isn't a cozy, feel good, sit around a campfire singing kumbaya type of forum. People come here for straight answers, accurate information and all too often desperate help after all the popular sources failed them. Most, if not all, of us needed some kind of wake-up call upon arrival here. Rawze is no Mary Poppins. His medicine is accompanied by a spoon full of hot sauce instead of sugar.

[Turbogrits]

Ok guys not trying to open a new can of worms here but have some questions on primary oil filters. Seems like a good idea to put on a bypass filter but in my case I have a couple 2015 Volvo VNL day cabs with pushers with ISX CM 2350 550HP 1850TQ pulling 50FT triple axle grain wagons so I'm grossing #100,000... Moral of the story is there's basically no room under the hood to install for example the big amsoil bypass filter setup. Could possibly get the smaller universal one under there but not sure if it would be worthwhile? So questions on fleetguard filters their website don't seem to list micron ratings but from what I gathered the LF9080 has a better micron rating than the LF14000 high efficiency? Just looking to put the best micron rated filter on the darn things since a bypass filter is going to be nearly impossible. I change the oil every 10,000 miles or 300 hours whichever comes first since they sometimes aquire a lot of idle time. Just trying to get the most longetivity out of em as possible. By the way great forum lots of eye opening information

[Rawze]

Many newer trucks do not have room under the hood for a bypass filter to be installed. Mine was installed on the frame under the back of the cab (passenger side) and long hoses feed it from the oil rifle/drain.

As far as the filters go, I have never had issue with the fleetguard LF14000NN filters. They are supposedly rated down to 4 microns. ref: https://www.oemoffhighway.com/engines/fi...ube-filter

As far as bypass filters go ... If your truck has the EGR system active, then an additional bypass filter is a must, to keep the soot levels at bay. Otherwise, it is just wasted moneys and space. On a properly cared for engine with a decent brand of oil, it is always NOT LUBRICATED COMPONENTS that cause one to be inframed. It is always the non-lubricated components that cause it to be inframed at some point. Dropped liner, head wearing out (valve seats etc.). .. none of which would have been benefited one damn iota based on the oil .. . because they are NOT lubricated parts.

I.E.> Putting all your faith in super-duper oil and cleanliness and all sorts of other over-extended ideas will NOT EXTEND THE ENGINES LIFE BY ONE DAMN BIT!. - Just do what is recommended + keep after all preventative maintenance, and the oil-fed systems/components will never be the issue.

Too many people obsess over oil and their engines, and it is laughable when it comes right down to it. Ask 100 people on here that have had to overhaul their engines for what ACTUALLY FAILED, that caused their in-frame.. and 100+ people will all tell you it was something that was NOT a lubricated component at all.

Dropped liner, blown head gaskets, valve seats eaten up in the head, cracked piston, etc.

ON the very rare occasion that someone has excessive blo-by .. is was always caused by some damn fool not using proper air filters, or having CAC and other intake system leaks, or excessive soot issues from not caring for the engine at all .. or road sand/dirt got into the intake and ate the rings/cross hatching up. it is ALWAYS some sort of engine abuse that causes it. Same thing with the overhead cams. Engine abuse caused by allowing too much crank case fumes to build up in the engine, starving the top-end of oil... or soot packing from not changing the oil often enough vs. the fuel mileage, hours, etc.


The one argument to this would be fuel pump failures (by not changing the guts every 400k miles) on the common rail engines.. but that is a fuel-lubricated failure,.. not an oil-lubricated failure.. so that does not qualify either.

Someone wants their enigne to last longer.. a LOT longer?????

People should stop obsessing about the damn oil like mad and start obsessing about not lugging the engine into oblivion. - Bottom end torque is the killer of ISX’s and other engines, and it can totally be prevented. >>Obsess about using the right RPM (above 1500+) when you have to climb hills and push the fuel pedal hard. Stay away from big torque on the low rpm bands. Re-gear the truck so that it can be driven this way too.

Driving it better and re-gearing it for the loads, etc. properly will easily extend the engine life by 2x or more!. These are the things that actually help those non-lubracated components and failures mentioned above from giving way so easily... not the oil.

[GunRunner]

I have searched high and low and I was not able to find an answer. When doing a PM/oil change, do you drop the bypass filter, dump the oil out and screw the same filter back on or just leave it and do a regular oil change? I just did my first PM after installing the bypass kit and wasn't sure, so I just left it alone and didn't dump the old oil out. Just curious for my next PM. Thanks!

[hhow55]

I never did dump the oil out during pm oil changes............I did replace the bypass filter when it almost full of soot.

[GunRunner]

hhow55, thank you. I didn't dump mine this time and I figured it's probably 2 quarts or so in the filter and wouldn't be an issue but I wanted to make sure I'm doing it correctly. I monitor the filter as Rawze has mentioned by feeling where the heat is. I've got about 8,000 miles on the filter so I should be good for a while. Thanks again!

[Mrkentee]

Rawze Wrote:People should stop obsessing about the damn oil like mad and start obsessing about not lugging the engine into oblivion. - Bottom end torque is the killer of ISX’s and other engines, and it can totally be prevented. >>Obsess about using the right RPM (above 1500+) when you have to climb hills and push the fuel pedal hard. Stay away from big torque on the low rpm bands. Re-gear the truck so that it can be driven this way too.

I keep rpm’s up but also keep my foot light enough to stay around 30 lbs of boost, thinking that’s better than mashing it and pushing about 40 lbs. I would definitely climb hills faster doing it that way. Is my thinking right? Also, I used to hear it said here to climb hills at 20 lbs of boost, and I could do that with the tune I had at that time. I couldn’t do that now.