Bent rear axle?

[Hammerhead]

(01-01-2019 )imalumberjack Wrote:  Sooooo, cleaned everything and put it back together (what in the hell is that dumb sleeve for in between the bearings?) torqued to 200 ft pounds backed it off then torqued to 50ft pounds and it said to back off a quarter turn? seemed pretty loose then? slapped it together and spun it around ....no wobble ....I think it might have been the idiot (me) that put the tires on with an impact? maybe had them crossed up? have not went for a ride yet but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

The hub is machined to specific depths and holds the outer races at a precise spacing.
The sleeve is machined to a specific length to properly space the INNER RACE of the bearing assembly.
THIS MEANS INSTALLATION IS DIFFERENT!!!

WITH THE SLEEVE, you torque the bearings to 200, back off, retorque to set the OUTTER RACE PRELOAD IN THE HUB, then you back off and retorque to spec (again usually 200) and lock the nut, THE SLEEVE SETS the inner race "spacing".

WITHOUT THE SLEEVE, is when you do the "back the nut off 1/4 turn and lock it." This part of the procedure sets the INNER RACE spacings WITHOUT the sleeve...

[Hammerhead]

(12-30-2018 )tree98 Wrote:  I can't see how the axle shaft could get bent and the axle housing not also be bent. I really think your problem is something else. The wheel bearings ride on the axle housing essentially so that's what would have to be bent for it to do what your describing.

(12-30-2018 )imalumberjack Wrote:  the wheel bearings are in hub ....if it was whole axle housing bent it would just angle the wheel ... I have considered the hub to be bent? would be very odd ..
the axle I slide it in housing and wiggle up and down to slip into splines so its loose floating in housing (I am only thinking here) sooooo if axle flange was bent it would destroy bearings in short order .... and if hub was just loose (bearings) the axle would not allow it to wobble side to side ..only up and down and in and out? .........I have thought about crap in between drum and hub mounting to make it cattywompus but I don't see anything?

You are correct, if the axle housing (banjo) was bent, the wheels would still run uniformly, just at an angle.
If the axle shaft was bent...well that would be a new one on me, it would break before it bent. Even the housings I've seen bend, the axle shafts either broke, or stayed straight.
My money is on: you have a screwed hub. Most hubs nowadays are aluminum, so under significant strain the steel bearings will hold in place and the aluminum will warp, bend or rock the races leading to impossible alignment.

[Nilao]

Sleeve....if you have a spacer between the bearings then they are LMS hubs. LMS hubs get torqued to 300 ft-lb and left there. DO NOT back off a LMS hub.

from my meritor manual....

Models with a Double Nut Pack
WARNING
Tighten fasteners to the correct torque specifications. Do not
over-tighten or under-tighten fasteners, which can cause the
wheels to separate from the vehicle. Serious personal injury
and damage to components can result.
1. Install the inner spindle nut. Tighten it to 300 lb-ft (400 Nm).
Do not back off the spindle nut. Figure 5.7. @
Figure 5.7
2. Engage the spindle nut system locking device.
If the locking system cannot be engaged with the nut
tightened to 300 lb-ft (400 Nm): Advance the nut until
the nut locks.
If a double nut or jam nut system is used: Bend the lock
tab or install the set screw after the outer nut is tightened to
200 lb-ft (270 Nm). @
Rotate the hub when tightening.

[imalumberjack]

(01-02-2019 )Hammerhead Wrote:  

(01-01-2019 )imalumberjack Wrote:  Sooooo, cleaned everything and put it back together (what in the hell is that dumb sleeve for in between the bearings?) torqued to 200 ft pounds backed it off then torqued to 50ft pounds and it said to back off a quarter turn? seemed pretty loose then? slapped it together and spun it around ....no wobble ....I think it might have been the idiot (me) that put the tires on with an impact? maybe had them crossed up? have not went for a ride yet but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

The hub is machined to specific depths and holds the outer races at a precise spacing.
The sleeve is machined to a specific length to properly space the INNER RACE of the bearing assembly.
THIS MEANS INSTALLATION IS DIFFERENT!!!

WITH THE SLEEVE, you torque the bearings to 200, back off, retorque to set the OUTTER RACE PRELOAD IN THE HUB, then you back off and retorque to spec (again usually 200) and lock the nut, THE SLEEVE SETS the inner race "spacing".

WITHOUT THE SLEEVE, is when you do the "back the nut off 1/4 turn and lock it." This part of the procedure sets the INNER RACE spacings WITHOUT the sleeve...

When I was reading instructions it said nothing about sleeve!!! I did not like the 1/4 turn back as it lost all preload!!!!! Thanks! looks like I will be doing it again.

[Rawze]

(01-02-2019 )imalumberjack Wrote:  When I was reading instructions it said nothing about sleeve!!! I did not like the 1/4 turn back as it lost all preload!!!!! Thanks! looks like I will be doing it again.

essentially, with spacers, final torque when it is all said and done at 200-300ft-lbs depending on axle type/model.

Without spacers installed, 50-80 ft-lbs final torque.

hubs should feel slightly tight, but can move with some medium effort on one finger stretched out straight.