How to turn your heater core off and on in the cab.

[earnies2]

Well today is install day....I also got a new degas bottle because I can't see my antifreeze in the old one....I will let you know how I make out...

[earnies2]

(06-23-2019 )earnies2 Wrote:  Well today is install day....I also got a new degas bottle because I can't see my antifreeze in the old one....I will let you know how I make out...

Well things didn't go well I couldn't get the fitting off the tube that comes out of the back of the head....so I heated it up and the copper fitting broke off.....so I removed the tube and put it in a vice and heated the fitting again hop to get the broken piece out but the whole fitting that was grazed on the pipe came off...so off to cummins in the am for a new tube and seal for the head end....sometimes I'm a bull in a China shop.....

[Waterloo]

Earnie! What the hell were you doing behind the head? All you had to do was go inline with the heater core inlet hose. You can extend it too if it is too short and mount the valve elsewhere using hose barbs and clamps. Bad Earnie!

[earnies2]

(06-24-2019 )Waterloo Wrote:  Earnie! What the hell were you doing behind the head? All you had to do was go inline with the heater core inlet hose. You can extend it too if it is too short and mount the valve elsewhere using hose barbs and clamps. Bad Earnie!

I wasn't behind the head. The heater hose tube comes out of the side of the head at the rear. I broke the 90 degree fitting at the end of the tube. Then I removed the tube to put it in a vice to remove the broken piece and after heating it the threaded part that was grazed on the tube came off I still never got the broken part out....

[earnies2]

(06-24-2019 )earnies2 Wrote:  

(06-24-2019 )Waterloo Wrote:  Earnie! What the hell were you doing behind the head? All you had to do was go inline with the heater core inlet hose. You can extend it too if it is too short and mount the valve elsewhere using hose barbs and clamps. Bad Earnie!

I wasn't behind the head. The heater hose tube comes out of the side of the head at the rear. I broke the 90 degree fitting at the end of the tube. Then I removed the tube to put it in a vice to remove the broken piece and after heating it the threaded part that was grazed on the tube came off I still never got the broken part out....

All fixed I had the fitting tight welded back on the tube and finished the job now all I need to do is wire it up

[earnies2]

(06-24-2019 )earnies2 Wrote:  

(06-24-2019 )earnies2 Wrote:  

(06-24-2019 )Waterloo Wrote:  Earnie! What the hell were you doing behind the head? All you had to do was go inline with the heater core inlet hose. You can extend it too if it is too short and mount the valve elsewhere using hose barbs and clamps. Bad Earnie!

I wasn't behind the head. The heater hose tube comes out of the side of the head at the rear. I broke the 90 degree fitting at the end of the tube. Then I removed the tube to put it in a vice to remove the broken piece and after heating it the threaded part that was grazed on the tube came off I still never got the broken part out....

All fixed I had the fitting tight welded back on the tube and finished the job now all I need to do is wire it up

Here is what I had welded...

[Waterloo]

Looks fantastic! Factory.

[Daytripper]

(05-16-2019 )Waterloo Wrote:  

(05-15-2019 )Lonestar10 Wrote:  They do make electric valves for such occasions don't know name but it's similar to what you did only when factory installed as soon as you select AC it shuts then reopens if defrost or normal heat/vent is selected. My truck has a water spicket type valve but I can't use it due to apu so what you posted sounds simple enough to try.

This is the first ruck I have owned that I have had to go under the hood to turn the heater core on and off. All of my other trucks blew ice cold air and heat year round without ever getting under there. This mess of a ProStar, well everyone knows what a garbage HVAC system these are.

Install was easy, everything bolted right up, no need to purchase anything extra, just drain off the coolant pull the spigot valve and replace with this motorized valve. It was an exact fit to what came out, 1/2" NPT.

Wired it up, insured it was working properly and installed switch in dash. Vacuum filled coolant, started truck, and I had heat! Flipped the switch, I had AC!

I spent less than $40 and my time.

I would use this over a solenoid valve. As the solenoid valves need to be babysat. They work with a constant draw of electricity to keep the valve open or closed, forget about it and the solenoid burns up, at least on the ones I have found.

With this unit, to open, flip switch to up to ON position, wait a few seconds and flip to OFF position. To close valve, flip switch DOWN to ON position, wait a few seconds and flip back to OFF position.

I would think as long as the quality of the switch and motor is decent, this should last a while. Finger's crossed.

I have had the same problem....took my truck to the dealer to check wiring...ect. kept telling me thermistor reading was at 34°... Well that wasn't what was coming out of my vents! After replacing a broken actuator and verifying that the doors moved freely but air was still warm. I have used my clamp off pliars to shut off flow to heater core and what do you know....ice cold air! The hvac door must warp or crack. Will be installing these this weekend!

[Rawze]

(06-25-2019 )Daytripper Wrote:  ...
The hvac door must warp or crack. Will be installing these this weekend!

yes, the blend doors warp and get sticky when they get old. - I got tired of replacing blend door motors on mine, so I resorted to ripping out the motors, controllers and everything, then installing lawn-mower throttle cables to control the blend doors by hand from the drivers seat instead. Now, whenever one of them hangs up a bit, I can feel it and just jiggle the cable a bit and it will get unstuck. lol

works just like the old cars from the 1970's now