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Camstyn · 01-21-2021, **(Subject: X15 questions )**

I think you’ve got the wrong idea about me. I do keep my speed down, I keeps my boost down never exceeding 20, I run my truck at the 1400-1600rpm range and cruise at 1500. My torque gauge never exceeds around 70% on the steepest of grades. You’re preaching to the choir. I drive for fuel economy, there’s not much more I can do to improve now other than change equipment. I do not demand or use 565/2050, that is just the program my engine happens to have. I drove it with these same techniques when I had the 505/1850 program.

I’n not saying I’ve mastered the driving habits but I have been applying these techniques for years. I just want to know if the efficiency series would actually be more efficient or if it’s just marketing.

Waterloo · 01-21-2021, **(Subject: X15 questions )**

(01-21-2021 )Camstyn Wrote: I think you’ve got the wrong idea about me. I do keep my speed down, I keeps my boost down never exceeding 20, I run my truck at the 1400-1600rpm range and cruise at 1500. My torque gauge never exceeds around 70% on the steepest of grades. You’re preaching to the choir. I drive for fuel economy, there’s not much more I can do to improve now other than change equipment. I do not demand or use 565/2050, that is just the program my engine happens to have. I drove it with these same techniques when I had the 505/1850 program.

I’n not saying I’ve mastered the driving habits but I have been applying these techniques for years. I just want to know if the efficiency series would actually be more efficient or if it’s just marketing.

I have a different set up, 3:42 gears, 18 speed. Do you use the cruise control or your foot? I am assuming your foot, as you stated you try to keep the boost low, which is how I drive. Rarely the cruise is used, and if it is, the land is flat, I don't use it much other than when bobtail.

The RPM's, @ 60 mph, I run in high 7th @ 1800 rpm, usually when heading into the wind, letting the motor do the work. When in the mountains or very hilly terrain, I tend to run in high and low 7th, or high 6th. Trying to always keep the rpms over 1600 and up to 1900. If the rpms drop below 1600, I can see the fuel mileage on the computer drop to 2 mpg, so I keep the rpm up, in that 1600+ range by dropping and splitting gears, and get 3+ on the computer.

The above is how I get the best fuel mileage in my brick of an aero truck. A mid roof hauling doubles is not very aerodynamic, huge gap behind the cab and trailers, the Herd Defender Bumper does not help, along with all of the crap on the truck, steerable lift axle and APU... 6 mpg is about the best I can do under the circumstances. The saving grace, the truck is paid for, and knock on wood, running fantastically. The Solar Panels saved me quite a bit on fuel too, the APU rarely ever runs, if at all.

arch_stanton · 01-22-2021, **(Subject: X15 questions )**

I just heard that the new cummins motors delivered in 2021 will not be able to have the HP and tongue ratings changed up or down due to the smog rules or at least the dealer can't I don't know if it can be done by the after market.

Waterloo · 01-22-2021, **(Subject: X15 questions )**

(01-22-2021 )arch_stanton Wrote: I just heard that the new cummins motors delivered in 2021 will not be able to have the HP and tongue ratings changed up or down due to the smog rules or at least the dealer can't I don't know if it can be done by the after market.

Just my own observation, but these new motors are not designed for these high horse power settings and especially the torque they produce. And the dealers along with Cummins, stating that lugging the motor is ok, and we simply have a recipe for disaster. Then the fuel pumps and these new turbos and plastic actuators. Glad I have a solid 871... Knock on wood.

Rawze · 01-22-2021, **(Subject: X15 questions )**

(01-22-2021 )arch_stanton Wrote: I just heard that the new cummins motors delivered in 2021 will not be able to have the HP and tongue ratings changed up or down due to the smog rules or at least the dealer can't I don't know if it can be done by the after market.

This is true. EPA is making it basically illegal to up the hp after the purchase of an engine to prevent higher exhaust output.

I have seen some articles on this and had made mention of it on the forum here a while back but can't find it at the moment.

Rawze · 01-22-2021, **(Subject: X15 questions )**

(01-21-2021 )Camstyn Wrote: I think you’ve got the wrong idea about me. I do keep my speed down, I keeps my boost down never exceeding 20, I run my truck at the 1400-1600rpm range and cruise at
...

describing more details about what you do and how you do it helps others who do not know you to better understand what your situation is. I think however that this bit you posted here implies that you might be taking things a bit too personally on here. You need to keep in mind that I always answer questions in a way that considers everyone else + ppl who are new to (or are considering) truck ownership who also read the threads on my forum. My answers are not usually specifically pointed towards just a single person and their individual plight. If I did/do not mention the things and concerns that I do then it is often that others cannot learn much from what is going on. - I.E.> no one is 'picking on you' but instead clearly making sure that all things are considered.

Camstyn · 01-22-2021, **(Subject: X15 questions )**

(01-22-2021 )Rawze Wrote:
(01-21-2021 )Camstyn Wrote: I think you’ve got the wrong idea about me. I do keep my speed down, I keeps my boost down never exceeding 20, I run my truck at the 1400-1600rpm range and cruise at
...

describing more details about what you do and how you do it helps others who do not know you to better understand what your situation is. I think however that this bit you posted here implies that you might be taking things a bit too personally on here. You need to keep in mind that I always answer questions in a way that considers everyone else + ppl who are new to (or are considering) truck ownership who also read the threads on my forum. My answers are not usually specifically pointed towards just a single person and their individual plight. If I did/do not mention the things and concerns that I do then it is often that others cannot learn much from what is going on. - I.E.> no one is 'picking on you' but instead clearly making sure that all things are considered.

You’re right, I read it as if it were personal. My mistake. No offence was taken though, I love the no BS info found here.

Camstyn · 01-22-2021, **(Subject: X15 questions )**

(01-21-2021 )Waterloo Wrote:
(01-21-2021 )Camstyn Wrote: I think you’ve got the wrong idea about me. I do keep my speed down, I keeps my boost down never exceeding 20, I run my truck at the 1400-1600rpm range and cruise at 1500. My torque gauge never exceeds around 70% on the steepest of grades. You’re preaching to the choir. I drive for fuel economy, there’s not much more I can do to improve now other than change equipment. I do not demand or use 565/2050, that is just the program my engine happens to have. I drove it with these same techniques when I had the 505/1850 program.

I’n not saying I’ve mastered the driving habits but I have been applying these techniques for years. I just want to know if the efficiency series would actually be more efficient or if it’s just marketing.

I have a different set up, 3:42 gears, 18 speed. Do you use the cruise control or your foot? I am assuming your foot, as you stated you try to keep the boost low, which is how I drive. Rarely the cruise is used, and if it is, the land is flat, I don't use it much other than when bobtail.

The RPM's, @ 60 mph, I run in high 7th @ 1800 rpm, usually when heading into the wind, letting the motor do the work. When in the mountains or very hilly terrain, I tend to run in high and low 7th, or high 6th. Trying to always keep the rpms over 1600 and up to 1900. If the rpms drop below 1600, I can see the fuel mileage on the computer drop to 2 mpg, so I keep the rpm up, in that 1600+ range by dropping and splitting gears, and get 3+ on the computer.

The above is how I get the best fuel mileage in my brick of an aero truck. A mid roof hauling doubles is not very aerodynamic, huge gap behind the cab and trailers, the Herd Defender Bumper does not help, along with all of the crap on the truck, steerable lift axle and APU... 6 mpg is about the best I can do under the circumstances. The saving grace, the truck is paid for, and knock on wood, running fantastically. The Solar Panels saved me quite a bit on fuel too, the APU rarely ever runs, if at all.

Yes I only use my cruise control on sections of road where it won’t be acting any different than my right foot would be doing, like long flat road, or a long gradual steady grade. I’ve been doing this regional linehaul for 11 years so I know the roads like the back of my hand, definitely helps to know how to make the truck work as little as possible.

After reading this I decided to try running up a few hills at my normal speed but a half gear lower, so at 1750 instead of 1500. It did look like my instant fuel economy was lower. I’m going to experiment with this some more next week. I hadn’t really considered letting it rev more because I’m not working it hard at all, and it just doesn’t feel natural but going to give that a go and I’ll report my results after a few rounders.

JimT · 01-23-2021, **(Subject: X15 questions )**

(01-21-2021 )Camstyn Wrote: Thanks for the feedback. I don’t think I could get away with a single axle tractor, I need all the traction I can get. An aero day cab may be in my future though, I’ll have to rent one again for more than one trip to verify the results that I found.

So as someone who drove single axle tractors for nearly a decade (LTL up in New England, USA) I can say from experience that it's exactly the opposite. The single axle is MUCH better traction than a tandem, especially when you're on the lighter side. It's because all the weight is always on the one axle as opposed to being spread between 2 axles. With a tandem axle you're more likely to loose traction on one of the axles causing you to get stuck easier. Inter-Axle lock and Power Divider Lock helps on a tandem, but PDL is rarely needed on a single axle.

Remember, whether you have a single or tandem axle, under normal driving conditions power is only being applied to the ground via one side of one axle at any given time.

So, if your loads are ALWAYS under the weight threshold then a single axle is a great option. Great traction, less weight, less parts to maintain, less tires to buy and a shorter wheelbase (depending how you spec it).