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Volvo8873 · 12-09-2024, **(Subject: Front crank seal )**

I also used the cheap tool for when I did my front crank seal. I think I got mine on eBay and it worked just fine. I had to take out the radiator though to do the job on the Volvo.

SquareOne · 12-20-2024, **(Subject: Front crank seal )**

Well, just replaced the front crank seal and this was a b!tch...at least for me. Has anyone had any issue with the seal being seized to the crank. It was like that damn blue shi#t between the seal ID and the crank locked down tight.

Literally positioned the tool in 2 different spots and still pulled the damn screws through the seal....twice! Either I'm that damn ignorant on how to use this tool, or this seal was just being a mofo! Ended up having to pry the outer lip flat (carefully with a flat screwdriver and wood against the housing since it's aluminum), then used a little heat with a needle nosed grip pliers in order to break it free from the damn crank. Pried against the crank nose with a bar through the pliers so nothing was touched on the housing. Once it broke free, it was just a matter of plenty patience and working a 1/4 of the seal at a time until it was all the way off... seriously wtf!?

- Before I removed the old seal, I measured the depth it was set at. It was about 4.6-4.7mm from the face of the bore. The cummins procedure with the 25mm spacers on the tool sets the seal flush with the housing bore. I ended up pushing it back to the original position using a second set of spacers that came with the tool I had (now it's about 5-5.2mm deep all the way around) Hopefully it all goes well once its back together, otherwise it's take 2!

tree98 · 12-20-2024, **(Subject: Front crank seal )**

Oh yea they can be a real bitch to get off. I wonder if the genuine cummins high dollar tool does a better job getting them off????

SquareOne · 12-20-2024, **(Subject: Front crank seal )**

(12-20-2024 )tree98 Wrote: Oh yea they can be a real bitch to get off. I wonder if the genuine cummins high dollar tool does a better job getting them off????

Me too....

After looking at a few of them, it looks like maybe the self tapping screws are bigger on the genuine Cummins tool?? Easy fix if so, but honestly, I'm not sure if it would've mattered. When I started cranking down on that puller I thought, "No way it's this F'n tight!" I was wrong lol

Volvo8873 · 12-23-2024, **(Subject: Front crank seal )**

(12-20-2024 )SquareOne Wrote: Well, just replaced the front crank seal and this was a b!tch...at least for me. Has anyone had any issue with the seal being seized to the crank. It was like that damn blue shi#t between the seal ID and the crank locked down tight.

Mine was the same way! Made me think twice on what I was possibly doing wrong! Lol

Btech · 12-23-2024, **(Subject: Front crank seal )**

(12-20-2024 )tree98 Wrote: Oh yea they can be a real bitch to get off. I wonder if the genuine cummins high dollar tool does a better job getting them off????

I've used both the genuine cummins tool and the cheap aftermarket ones.
I'll say the cummins one worked a little better, but I still had to take a second bite with the screws before it pulled the old seal all the way out.
The only advantage the cummins one had was you could put 8 screws into the seal instead of just the 6 my aftermarket one has holes for, wouldn't be hard to remedy that issue though.

SquareOne · 12-24-2024, **(Subject: Front crank seal )**

(12-23-2024 )Volvo8873 Wrote: Mine was the same way! Made me think twice on what I was possibly doing wrong! Lol

Maannnn I'm tellin ya, I had a serious 'O $hit' moment after it pulled the 2nd time. Did not expect it to do that. Read the procedure a couple times and watched a couple videos on the R/I of the seal, so I thought this was gonna be cake...not so much. The video I saw looked to be a later model truck, so maybe after 10yrs and 900k, that seal wasn't ready to let go lol!

(12-23-2024 )Btech Wrote: ...I'll say the cummins one worked a little better, but I still had to take a second bite with the screws before it pulled the old seal all the way out.
The only advantage the cummins one had was you could put 8 screws into the seal instead of just the 6 my aftermarket one has holes for, wouldn't be hard to remedy that issue though.

Guess I never realized the Cummins had more holes. That would definitely help. Almost wonder if bringing the crank slowly to couple hundred degrees would help the blue residue let go?