Bypass Oil Filter
04-01-2017, (Subject: Bypass Oil Filter ) 
Post: #1
Bypass Oil Filter
Looking to install a bypass oil filter. What kind of bypass systems are you using?
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04-01-2017, (Subject: Bypass Oil Filter ) 
Post: #2
RE: Bypass Oil Filter
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/fi...e=BMK30-EA

This seems to be the favorite around here, it's cost effective and has just as good of a micron rating as the ecopur or spinner. Oil Pressure isn't high enough on the isx to use a spinner.

I am looking at this one right now......

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/fi...e=BMK22-EA

I don't know if it's new maybe because when I bought my first one, this one wasn't available.


User's Signature: I'm no mechanic, I'm just a guy that breaks down enough to know a bit.
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04-01-2017, (Subject: Bypass Oil Filter ) 
Post: #3
RE: Bypass Oil Filter
Thanks for the info, will do some homework on the Amsoil setup.

What's the difference between the Amsoil and a spinner? Which one gets more junk out?

If I want to run a spinner, my current understanding of these Cummins engines is I need to get the oil pressure up by having the oil pump shimmed. What is the cost and turnaround time on something like this?
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04-01-2017, (Subject: Bypass Oil Filter ) 
Post: #4
RE: Bypass Oil Filter
Shimming the oil pump is simple. Rawze has a video and hammer did a good writeup about it. He also put a spinner on but said it's pretty much useless.

The amsoil does a good job at filtering extra particles out of your oil. The ecopur has a heating element that is supposed to help it filter acids out of your oil as well.

If your doing extremely dedicated drains then ecopur may be good for you as acid in the oil from the combustion process will cause damage but if your doing normal drain intervals then the amsoil is a perfect cost effective choice.

As for which is better, that's a old debate like which truck, engine or oil is better.

Spinner is supposed to be the best at getting soot out but you need high pressure.

Amsoil and ecopur are just synthetic media spin on filters, the spinner2 is a centrifuge, like the ride "the gravitron" at the fair, it spins so fast that the soot in the oil is gravity forced to the walls of it while it spins.


User's Signature: I'm no mechanic, I'm just a guy that breaks down enough to know a bit.
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 Thanks given by: Rawze
04-01-2017, (Subject: Bypass Oil Filter ) 
Post: #5
RE: Bypass Oil Filter
Ok good to know. My goal is engine reliability and longevity.

I dont run at or near gross with lots of short trips for half of the year, the other half of the year I run 3/4 of gross on long distance trips.

Been using a pocket oil tester to monitor the oil condition along with sending out oil samples a few times a year.
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04-02-2017, (Subject: Bypass Oil Filter ) 
Post: #6
RE: Bypass Oil Filter
(04-01-2017 )Brock Wrote:  Shimming the oil pump is simple. Rawze has a video and hammer did a good writeup about it. He also put a spinner on but said it's pretty much useless.

Oh I wouldn't say it's pretty much useless, it's just that with @m*m^2 the damn oil stays so clean there really isn't anything to remove from the oil.
The little bit of film that was there after 3 months had very high concentrations of soot and did contain wear metals, so I'd say it is doing its job.
Yes, I shimmed my oil pump with 8 US dimes.
It's an easy procedure;
-drop the pan
-remove the one oil pump mounting bolt blocking the "dogbone"
-remove the cotter pin
-catch the assembly, it will pop when the cotter pin clears the opening
-remove the spring
-install dimes in the dogbone
-insert spring into dogbone recess, and reassemble in reverse. You will need a 3/8 drive extension to push the Assy back in place due to the increased spring pressure
-verify torque spec in quickserve. Mine says 41 ft/lbs, but it is your responsibility to verify yours!

My write up on the spinner part is post 71 here: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=108&page=8
The write up on the oil pump shimming procedure is older and is no longer available


User's Signature: Why? Why do I always ask "why?" Because I can't learn or help teach others with "'cause I said so..."
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 Thanks given by: Rawze , 386lover , fargonaz , simon999 , lonewolf , Toolguy
04-08-2017, (Subject: Bypass Oil Filter ) 
Post: #7
RE: Bypass Oil Filter
(04-02-2017 )Hammerhead Wrote:  
(04-01-2017 )Brock Wrote:  Shimming the oil pump is simple. Rawze has a video and hammer did a good writeup about it. He also put a spinner on but said it's pretty much useless.

Oh I wouldn't say it's pretty much useless, it's just that with @m*m^2 the damn oil stays so clean there really isn't anything to remove from the oil.
The little bit of film that was there after 3 months had very high concentrations of soot and did contain wear metals, so I'd say it is doing its job.
Yes, I shimmed my oil pump with 8 US dimes.
It's an easy procedure;
-drop the pan
-remove the one oil pump mounting bolt blocking the "dogbone"
-remove the cotter pin
-catch the assembly, it will pop when the cotter pin clears the opening
-remove the spring
-install dimes in the dogbone
-insert spring into dogbone recess, and reassemble in reverse. You will need a 3/8 drive extension to push the Assy back in place due to the increased spring pressure
-verify torque spec in quickserve. Mine says 41 ft/lbs, but it is your responsibility to verify yours!

My write up on the spinner part is post 71 here: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=108&page=8
The write up on the oil pump shimming procedure is older and is no longer available
you shim to get higher oil pressure?
is so how much ? how is yours?
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04-08-2017, (Subject: Bypass Oil Filter ) 
Post: #8
RE: Bypass Oil Filter
(04-08-2017 )doarmihai Wrote:  you shim to get higher oil pressure?
is so how much ? how is yours?

Yes, shim for higher oil pressure.
The theory is, higher oil pressure will reduce or eliminate soot deposits forming in the smaller oil passages thus reducing the chances of oil starvation damage. The overhead cam(s) in the ISX is known to be a weakness, so increasing pressure should increase longevity.
This is all theory, but the theory has validity. So quite a few of us have taken the risk and have increased our operating pressure.
My CM871 was always on the low end of the spec, and I was always uncomfortable with it. I have 9 US dimes in the pump. I have a Spinner II bypass filter that has a parasitic draw of 2-3 psi, leaving me with a 44-48psi at operating range of 1550 RPM @ 230-205* (respectively) oil temperature.
The increased pressure also allows me to run the big 996 Spinner II bypass filter, which requires over 40psi (>45 is better) of pressure at operating temperature to work properly.
I am a heavy hauler that runs 150-180,000lbs GVW, so needless to say I have above an average torque load application and the risk of lower oil pressure damage IMHO is higher than the risk of spinning a bearing from excessive pressure in my application.

As listed above, I have several posts of what I did and my results in this thread. It starts with a very informative article by Rawze. It's a good one to read http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=108


User's Signature: Why? Why do I always ask "why?" Because I can't learn or help teach others with "'cause I said so..."
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 Thanks given by: Toolguy
04-09-2017, (Subject: Bypass Oil Filter ) 
Post: #9
RE: Bypass Oil Filter
(04-01-2017 )lovoltage Wrote:  Thanks for the info, will do some homework on the Amsoil setup.

What's the difference between the Amsoil and a spinner? Which one gets more junk out?

If I want to run a spinner, my current understanding of these Cummins engines is I need to get the oil pressure up by having the oil pump shimmed. What is the cost and turnaround time on something like this?

Tried the Spinner on MY ISX , Didn't work. I Use a Puradyne filter, and have had very good results.
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 Thanks given by: lovoltage




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