Rawze's Daily blog...
05-09-2016, (Subject: Rawze's Daily blog... ) 
Post: #28
RE: Rawze's Daily blog...
http://www.prelub.com/web/Engine-Pre-Lube/index.html


User's Signature: It's hard to win an argument with a smart person, but it's damn near impossible to win an argument with a stupid person
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05-10-2016, (Subject: Rawze's Daily blog... ) 
Post: #29
RE: Rawze's Daily blog...
(05-09-2016 )hhow55 Wrote:  http://www.prelub.com/web/Engine-Pre-Lube/index.html
It really bugs me that they can't put a price on their product without contacting them.

Quote:
It Doesn't Cost-It Pays. A Cummins Prelub™ starter can save your customer thousands of dollars in engine overhaul costs. Pay-back period for the initial investment can be as low as six months. And if the Prelub™ system saves just one turbo over the life of the engine overhaul, it has virtually paid for itself.

So in other words, it costs as much as a turbo. I'd really like to know how they figure the payback, as low as 6 months? Sounds like they're figuring how much they can get out of my wallet. Should be standard equipment but then they wouldn't sell all the saved parts.


User's Signature: 2010 386 Pete CM871, 13 spd. 3.55
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05-10-2016, (Subject: Rawze's Daily blog... ) 
Post: #30
RE: Rawze's Daily blog...
(05-10-2016 )in2trux Wrote:  
(05-09-2016 )hhow55 Wrote:  http://www.prelub.com/web/Engine-Pre-Lube/index.html
It really bugs me that they can't put a price on their product without contacting them.

Quote:
It Doesn't Cost-It Pays. A Cummins Prelub™ starter can save your customer thousands of dollars in engine overhaul costs. Pay-back period for the initial investment can be as low as six months. And if the Prelub™ system saves just one turbo over the life of the engine overhaul, it has virtually paid for itself.

So in other words, it costs as much as a turbo. I'd really like to know how they figure the payback, as low as 6 months? Sounds like they're figuring how much they can get out of my wallet. Should be standard equipment but then they wouldn't sell all the saved parts.
I think before I spent the money on that I would just wire up a switch to oil pressure sending unit so truck wouldn't start till it had oil pressure. Cost would only be 20 to 30 dollars and a little time.After thinking about it there maybe a parameter in ECM to keep engine from starting till you have oil pressure
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05-10-2016, (Subject: Rawze's Daily blog... ) 
Post: #31
RE: Rawze's Daily blog...
(05-10-2016 )in2trux Wrote:  
(05-09-2016 )hhow55 Wrote:  http://www.prelub.com/web/Engine-Pre-Lube/index.html
It really bugs me that they can't put a price on their product without contacting them.

Quote:
It Doesn't Cost-It Pays. A Cummins Prelub™ starter can save your customer thousands of dollars in engine overhaul costs. Pay-back period for the initial investment can be as low as six months. And if the Prelub™ system saves just one turbo over the life of the engine overhaul, it has virtually paid for itself.

So in other words, it costs as much as a turbo. I'd really like to know how they figure the payback, as low as 6 months? Sounds like they're figuring how much they can get out of my wallet. Should be standard equipment but then they wouldn't sell all the saved parts.

Cummins had problems with their version of a prelub starter a few years ago. I know the guys restoring military Cummins engines in military vehicles were buying them and destroying the parts when the preluber failed.

Hopefully Cummins has improved those.
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05-11-2016, (Subject: Rawze's Daily blog... ) 
Post: #32
RE: Rawze's Daily blog...
Flushing water out today and filling it with red coolant. Also going to take it to speedco and have the oil/filters changed that was used for the initial startup.

======================

Here is rough breakdown of what i have spent...

This is what I have in it roughly ...

$3830 -- Overhaul Kit (I purchased this a while back, so I did not spend it this go around).

$3560 -- Head (Brand new, not reman).

$1695 -- 3 reman injectors ($565 ea.)

$1050 -- New Alternator (320 Amps, Not reman)

$470 -- New Oil Pump (shimmed the regulator with 10 dimes as well and it makes 48-50 PSI).

$304 -- Rod Bearings

$184 -- Main bearings

$180 -- Lower Radiator frame bracket (old one was rusted out).

$150 -- Oil pan gasket

$58 -- Exhaust manifold bolts

$??? -- O-ring for top of thermostat

$??? -- New Main Supply Hose for Radiator

$??? -- Some 3/8" Air line.

$??? -- A/C Belt tensioner

$??? -- Main Belt Tensioner

$??? -- New Belts

$??? -- New Coolant (Red)

$??? -- Oil used for startup ($7.50 / gal El-cheapo oil + 1 gallon of 80/90 gear lube)

$??? -- Oil change at Speedco after test driving it.

$???? -- 4 cans of R134a to re-charge the A/C with.

======================

It comes in at right around 12k or so. I did the job myself, including counter-boring my own block so there is no labor bill.

YES, this is/was a low-rent type of project. I see no point in replacing a bunch of extra stuff and running up the bill all at once. I will get it back on the road and slowly replace things as needed from here. I didn't even bother to re-paint anything or even pull/replace the oil cooler, etc. -- I just wanted to do the minimum job, but I did do it right.


User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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 Thanks given by: 386lover , gatow900 , LargeCar
05-11-2016, (Subject: Rawze's Daily blog... ) 
Post: #33
RE: Rawze's Daily blog...
What kind of special tools was needed?
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05-11-2016, (Subject: Rawze's Daily blog... ) 
Post: #34
RE: Rawze's Daily blog...
(05-11-2016 )Rawze Wrote:  Flushing water out today and filling it with red coolant. Also going to take it to speedco and have the oil/filters changed that was used for the initial startup.

======================

Here is rough breakdown of what i have spent...

This is what I have in it roughly ...

$3830 -- Overhaul Kit (I purchased this a while back, so I did not spend it this go around).

$3560 -- Head (Brand new, not reman).

$1695 -- 3 reman injectors ($565 ea.)

$1050 -- New Alternator (320 Amps, Not reman)

$470 -- New Oil Pump (shimmed it with 10 dimnes as well and it makes 48-50 PSI).

$304 -- Rod Bearings

$184 -- Main bearings

$180 -- Lower Radiator frame bracket (old one was rusted out).

$150 -- Oil pan gasket

$58 -- Exhaust manifold bolts

$??? -- O-ring for top of thermostat

$??? -- New Main Supply Hose for Radiator

$??? -- Some 3/8" Air line.

$??? -- A/C Belt tensioner

$??? -- Main Belt Tensioner

$??? -- New Belts

$??? -- New Coolant (Red)

$??? -- Oil used for startup ($7.50 / gal El-cheapo oil + 1 gallon of 80/90 gear lube)

$??? -- Oil change at Speedco after test driving it.

$???? -- 4 cans of R134a to re-charge the A/C with.

======================

It comes in at right around 12k or so. I did the job myself, including counter-boring my own block so there is no labor bill.

YES, this is/was a low-rent type of project. I see no point in replacing a bunch of extra stuff and running up the bill all at once. I will get it back on the road and slowly replace things as needed from here. I didn't even bother to re-paint anything or even pull/replace the oil cooler, etc. -- I just wanted to do the minimum job, but I did do it right.

Damb! I did a reman oilpumps & didn't shim it
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05-11-2016, (Subject: Rawze's Daily blog... ) 
Post: #35
RE: Rawze's Daily blog...
Seeing as it's so easy to raise the oil pressure in an ISX is there some logical reason Cummins set it so low? My Volvo D13 with 15/40 Rotella runs 60 - 65 psi at road speed.


User's Signature: Too young to quit........Too old to change.
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05-12-2016, (Subject: Rawze's Daily blog... ) 
Post: #36
RE: Rawze's Daily blog...
(05-11-2016 )kryten Wrote:  Seeing as it's so easy to raise the oil pressure in an ISX is there some logical reason Cummins set it so low? My Volvo D13 with 15/40 Rotella runs 60 - 65 psi at road speed.

Some background info has revealed that they lowered the pressure because the extra pressure was washing out rod and main bearings on older models. I would suspect that they possibly carried that through to the newer engines.

I had a million miles on mine, and everything looked like new except the valve stems and overhead cam bearings. This was with the default 34-40 psi,.. so I see no potential in the stock pressure being a problem at all. I increased it to 48-50-psi just out of sheer curiosity, so perhaps it will extend the life of the head? -- not sure it will help, only time will tell.


User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!.
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