One down, 5 to go. I decided, while I'm waiting on my new flywheel housing, I'd use me old one, and set the block up on it to put the pistons in. Gravity is not on my side, but it went surprisingly smooth for a one man show. (My wife did put her freshly manicured hands in to help keep the rod from hitting anything)
Some lubriplate did squish out between the cap and rod... Any idea if that would affect the torque? (I have cut, not broken rods if that makes a difference)
On another note, check your rod bolts. While I didn't have any outright bad ones, there were a couple that were stretched pretty close to the limit. Luckily I had enough to pick out 24 good ones.
I'm going to have to put some type of hold downs on the liners so I don't pop any out turning it over.
(07-21-2018 )Nostalgic Wrote: [ -> ]One down, 5 to go. I decided, while I'm waiting on my new flywheel housing, I'd use me old one, and set the block up on it to put the pistons in. Gravity is not on my side, but it went surprisingly smooth for a one man show. (My wife did put her freshly manicured hands in to help keep the rod from hitting anything)
Some lubriplate did squish out between the cap and rod... Any idea if that would affect the torque? (I have cut, not broken rods if that makes a difference)
On another note, check your rod bolts. While I didn't have any outright bad ones, there were a couple that were stretched pretty close to the limit. Luckily I had enough to pick out 24 good ones.
I'm going to have to put some type of hold downs on the liners so I don't pop any out turning it over.
The mating surface between the rod and rod cap should have no contaminants. No oil, no lubriplate, etc. It should be a dry fit. Mains however get a a very light bead of Anaerobic sealant on the very outer edge of the cap mating surface only as per quickserv procedure. The Anaerobic sealant is there to prevent oil intrusion main cap fretting. - If you have gotten lubriplate in between the mating surfaces of the rod and rod cap though, you could have clearance issues with the crank and rod bearings and also there is a chance of rod cap fretting and eventual spinning of a rod bearing.
I am also not a fan of lubriplate either. It is not very oil soluable and I have seen people have issue with it. I prefer the permatex ultra-slick
https://amzn.to/2GSRn5Z . If the enigne is going to sit for a long period before cranking it (more than a week or so) then straight up Vasoline petroleum jelly is also a decent choice for pre-lube of the rod and main bearings.
Also make sure that the surface between the back side of the rod/main bearings where they sit in their housings is completely dry and clean. I have seen spun bearings because someone lubricated the back side of them by mistake.
At least it's easy to remedy. Never saw mention of sealant on the rods? I've used the permatex when I ran out of Amsoil assembly lube (which I used on the wrist pin), but I like the cleanness of the lubriplate on the mains and rods. It doesn't run off and make a big sticky mess to attract dust. I just used too much of it haha.
Watch the video in Rawze's overhaul series. He and Jerry McNeely do them. It's simple, but a particular pattern around three sides of the bolt hole.
(07-21-2018 )pearce trucking Wrote: [ -> ]Watch the video in Rawze's overhaul series. He and Jerry McNeely do them. It's simple, but a particular pattern around three sides of the bolt hole.
Yeah, the mains, but not the rods...
(07-21-2018 )Nostalgic Wrote: [ -> ] (07-21-2018 )pearce trucking Wrote: [ -> ]Watch the video in Rawze's overhaul series. He and Jerry McNeely do them. It's simple, but a particular pattern around three sides of the bolt hole.
Yeah, the mains, but not the rods...
Ahh, guess I got confused there. Did you post what tool you used for compressing the rings?
BTW, I got my timing wedges and rear crank seal tool from Dave's today. Also the mics from mcmaster, and my cam gear puller from Apex.
(07-21-2018 )Nostalgic Wrote: [ -> ] (07-21-2018 )pearce trucking Wrote: [ -> ]Watch the video in Rawze's overhaul series. He and Jerry McNeely do them. It's simple, but a particular pattern around three sides of the bolt hole.
Yeah, the mains, but not the rods...
Thats correct, just the mains get the Anerobic sealant. The beer was flowing last night. I corrected the post above so others don't get confused.
.
(07-22-2018 )pearce trucking Wrote: [ -> ]Ahh, guess I got confused there. Did you post what tool you used for compressing the rings?
BTW, I got my timing wedges and rear crank seal tool from Dave's today. Also the mics from mcmaster, and my cam gear puller from Apex.
I didn't post what tool, just that I bought it lol. I bought the OTC from AutoTool World, it was drop shipped from here in PA. Price went up a couple bucks since I bought it, but still cheapest I found.
http://www.autotoolworld.com/OTC-PT7040-...49472.html
It works well
While I still have a bit to go before my short block is ready to sling into the truck, I still have a lot to do to the truck before that can happen.
Got new cab and motor mounts ready, but this has been taunting me for a while...
I was going to repair the crossmember, but I'll save a day cleaning, welding and painting thanks to a deal from Vanderhaags.
On a side note, I hate the way wiring and airlines are run. It's just so sloppy, with extra wire just bunched up and zip tied into the bundle. The way it all just ran over and laid on the DS motor mount drives me crazy. Has anyone found a solution for the OCD people working on these things? Call me crazy, but I really want to look into some kind of conduit for these areas.